Car repairs…. What’s reasonable, what’s not?

[Oldandfat]

Ball joints are a wear item, so if one is worn out I'd replace the other one.

I mean, I wouldn't because I'm fucking lazy, but I should. As you said, it's an easy part to get to so the cost should be the same doing it now vs later, it's just the inconvenience of doing it again/bringing it to the shop.

This is part of my thought. Cost is the same. Whole day off with no car but only once. And if I redo the entire front end it’s likely I’ll never have to do it again.

[Oldandfat]

I think that’s what he’s implying.

All I know is I’m not a mechanic. A quick web search resulted in a unanimous views that struts and shocks should always be replaced in pairs. All other suspension parts was a mix of replace when need, or both sides with no consensus.

I think my mechanic is honest or at least honest with what he believes.

It’s in his interest to do both sides at once. I pay the same “book hours” if I replace one side different times or both sides at once. He’s,actually better doing both at once. Truck is already on the hoist and wheels offf, torch set up, etc.

Most wear items on cars are replaced in pairs or sets because they affect the other and only have so long of a lifespan. Manufactuers have an estimated vehicle life when they make them. GM for example says 200k so a ball joint that should last 200k miles would be a "never replace it" type thing. Something like factory struts and shocks technically last less than 100k (they lose their dampening) and they'll be under deferred maintenance.

For a car under 200k, this is how I'd do things around the suspension:
Shocks and struts: pairs
Control arms: when it breaks or shows high amounts of corrosion (gonna break soon). It's not supposed to have moving components other than the bushings so breaking a control arm means something major happened.

For most people, a shock or strut is a lifetime part lol. Also anything over 200k miles for me is "fix it if it breaks or it's imminent"

Truck is 9 years old. 75k on the odometer. It’s a baby. Another reason I’m ok with doing the whole front end at once. Heck I could redo the entire front and rear suspension at this point and call it a day. It would drive like new. Rear suspension is cheaper than the front.

I’m not worried about engine, transmission, transfer,case, etc. especially with my mileage.

I don’t consider suspension a repair but rather a cost of doing business like brakes and tires or as you put it differed maintenance.

And suspensions are definitely not lifetime. Possibly if you live in a city with nice roads, no bumpy gravel roads.

The only other deferred thing I can think of is possibly all the hose in the engine bay. Even with low mileage, time is time. I suppose we can say the same thing about bushings. I do keep my engine clean and dressed. I don’t know if the dressing does anything for longevity of hoses. I’m also thinking wheel bearings.

[brkriete]

And suspensions are definitely not lifetime. Possibly if you live in a city with nice roads, no bumpy gravel roads.

Don't do much city driving, do you?

[Oldandfat]

And suspensions are definitely not lifetime. Possibly if you live in a city with nice roads, no bumpy gravel roads.

Don't do much city driving, do you?

Most of my driving is city. Our roads are bad. I’ve driven some cities that have fantastic roads.

I also live in Canada so lots of freeze/thaw which destroys roads. Our roads are better in the winter with snow over them. Covers all the potholes.

Also dependent on what you carry in a truck as well.

[SnakePlissken]

I think that’s what he’s implying.

All I know is I’m not a mechanic. A quick web search resulted in a unanimous views that struts and shocks should always be replaced in pairs. All other suspension parts was a mix of replace when need, or both sides with no consensus.

I think my mechanic is honest or at least honest with what he believes.

It’s in his interest to do both sides at once. I pay the same “book hours” if I replace one side different times or both sides at once. He’s,actually better doing both at once. Truck is already on the hoist and wheels offf, torch set up, etc.

Most wear items on cars are replaced in pairs or sets because they affect the other and only have so long of a lifespan. Manufactuers have an estimated vehicle life when they make them. GM for example says 200k so a ball joint that should last 200k miles would be a "never replace it" type thing. Something like factory struts and shocks technically last less than 100k (they lose their dampening) and they'll be under deferred maintenance.

For a car under 200k, this is how I'd do things around the suspension:
Shocks and struts: pairs
Control arms: when it breaks or shows high amounts of corrosion (gonna break soon). It's not supposed to have moving components other than the bushings so breaking a control arm means something major happened.

For most people, a shock or strut is a lifetime part lol. Also anything over 200k miles for me is "fix it if it breaks or it's imminent"

Truck is 9 years old. 75k on the odometer. It’s a baby. Another reason I’m ok with doing the whole front end at once. Heck I could redo the entire front and rear suspension at this point and call it a day. It would drive like new. Rear suspension is cheaper than the front.

I’m not worried about engine, transmission, transfer,case, etc. especially with my mileage.

I don’t consider suspension a repair but rather a cost of doing business like brakes and tires or as you put it differed maintenance.

And suspensions are definitely not lifetime. Possibly if you live in a city with nice roads, no bumpy gravel roads.

The only other deferred thing I can think of is possibly all the hose in the engine bay. Even with low mileage, time is time. I suppose we can say the same thing about bushings. I do keep my engine clean and dressed. I don’t know if the dressing does anything for longevity of hoses. I’m also thinking wheel bearings.

In some cases it does make sense. 9 Years is a long time for things to rust and pot holes out especially if you live in Canada with salt on the roads. My old GMC had to get a ball joint replaced on the front passenger because of a notoriously horrible pot hole in New Orleans. I don't think anyone can escape pot holes

[Oldandfat]

I get my truck oil sprayed once a year before winter so the rust underneath isn’t too bad.

[Oldandfat]

I think that’s what he’s implying.

All I know is I’m not a mechanic. A quick web search resulted in a unanimous views that struts and shocks should always be replaced in pairs. All other suspension parts was a mix of replace when need, or both sides with no consensus.

I think my mechanic is honest or at least honest with what he believes.

It’s in his interest to do both sides at once. I pay the same “book hours” if I replace one side different times or both sides at once. He’s,actually better doing both at once. Truck is already on the hoist and wheels offf, torch set up, etc.

Most wear items on cars are replaced in pairs or sets because they affect the other and only have so long of a lifespan. Manufactuers have an estimated vehicle life when they make them. GM for example says 200k so a ball joint that should last 200k miles would be a "never replace it" type thing. Something like factory struts and shocks technically last less than 100k (they lose their dampening) and they'll be under deferred maintenance.

For a car under 200k, this is how I'd do things around the suspension:
Shocks and struts: pairs
Control arms: when it breaks or shows high amounts of corrosion (gonna break soon). It's not supposed to have moving components other than the bushings so breaking a control arm means something major happened.

For most people, a shock or strut is a lifetime part lol. Also anything over 200k miles for me is "fix it if it breaks or it's imminent"

Truck,has the “squeakies” again. I have one more upper, and one more lower control arm to be replaced. Is there anything else? Should I replace the tie rods now?

I like the mechanic but I don’t want to go back a 4th time in 2 months.

Am also thinking rear shocks/springs? That should be just about all the deferred stuff?

[Oldandfat]

I think that’s what he’s implying.

All I know is I’m not a mechanic. A quick web search resulted in a unanimous views that struts and shocks should always be replaced in pairs. All other suspension parts was a mix of replace when need, or both sides with no consensus.

I think my mechanic is honest or at least honest with what he believes.

It’s in his interest to do both sides at once. I pay the same “book hours” if I replace one side different times or both sides at once. He’s,actually better doing both at once. Truck is already on the hoist and wheels offf, torch set up, etc.

Most wear items on cars are replaced in pairs or sets because they affect the other and only have so long of a lifespan. Manufactuers have an estimated vehicle life when they make them. GM for example says 200k so a ball joint that should last 200k miles would be a "never replace it" type thing. Something like factory struts and shocks technically last less than 100k (they lose their dampening) and they'll be under deferred maintenance.

For a car under 200k, this is how I'd do things around the suspension:
Shocks and struts: pairs
Control arms: when it breaks or shows high amounts of corrosion (gonna break soon). It's not supposed to have moving components other than the bushings so breaking a control arm means something major happened.

For most people, a shock or strut is a lifetime part lol. Also anything over 200k miles for me is "fix it if it breaks or it's imminent"

Truck,has the “squeakies” again. I have one more upper, and one more lower control arm to be replaced. Is there anything else? Should I replace the tie rods now?

I like the mechanic but I don’t want to go back a 4th time in 2 months.

Am also thinking rear shocks/springs? That should be just about all the deferred stuff?

[SnakePlissken]

I think that’s what he’s implying.

All I know is I’m not a mechanic. A quick web search resulted in a unanimous views that struts and shocks should always be replaced in pairs. All other suspension parts was a mix of replace when need, or both sides with no consensus.

I think my mechanic is honest or at least honest with what he believes.

It’s in his interest to do both sides at once. I pay the same “book hours” if I replace one side different times or both sides at once. He’s,actually better doing both at once. Truck is already on the hoist and wheels offf, torch set up, etc.

Most wear items on cars are replaced in pairs or sets because they affect the other and only have so long of a lifespan. Manufactuers have an estimated vehicle life when they make them. GM for example says 200k so a ball joint that should last 200k miles would be a "never replace it" type thing. Something like factory struts and shocks technically last less than 100k (they lose their dampening) and they'll be under deferred maintenance.

For a car under 200k, this is how I'd do things around the suspension:
Shocks and struts: pairs
Control arms: when it breaks or shows high amounts of corrosion (gonna break soon). It's not supposed to have moving components other than the bushings so breaking a control arm means something major happened.

For most people, a shock or strut is a lifetime part lol. Also anything over 200k miles for me is "fix it if it breaks or it's imminent"

Truck,has the “squeakies” again. I have one more upper, and one more lower control arm to be replaced. Is there anything else? Should I replace the tie rods now?

I like the mechanic but I don’t want to go back a 4th time in 2 months.

Am also thinking rear shocks/springs? That should be just about all the deferred stuff?

That's a hard call. Vehicles make lots of sounds and some of them don't mean much. Are you getting any vibrations or noticeably difference in ride quality? Or sounds just at certain speeds?

[Brackish]

I think that’s what he’s implying.

All I know is I’m not a mechanic. A quick web search resulted in a unanimous views that struts and shocks should always be replaced in pairs. All other suspension parts was a mix of replace when need, or both sides with no consensus.

I think my mechanic is honest or at least honest with what he believes.

It’s in his interest to do both sides at once. I pay the same “book hours” if I replace one side different times or both sides at once. He’s,actually better doing both at once. Truck is already on the hoist and wheels offf, torch set up, etc.

Most wear items on cars are replaced in pairs or sets because they affect the other and only have so long of a lifespan. Manufactuers have an estimated vehicle life when they make them. GM for example says 200k so a ball joint that should last 200k miles would be a "never replace it" type thing. Something like factory struts and shocks technically last less than 100k (they lose their dampening) and they'll be under deferred maintenance.

For a car under 200k, this is how I'd do things around the suspension:
Shocks and struts: pairs
Control arms: when it breaks or shows high amounts of corrosion (gonna break soon). It's not supposed to have moving components other than the bushings so breaking a control arm means something major happened.

For most people, a shock or strut is a lifetime part lol. Also anything over 200k miles for me is "fix it if it breaks or it's imminent"

Truck,has the “squeakies” again. I have one more upper, and one more lower control arm to be replaced. Is there anything else? Should I replace the tie rods now?

I like the mechanic but I don’t want to go back a 4th time in 2 months.

Am also thinking rear shocks/springs? That should be just about all the deferred stuff?

My grandfather taught me to turn the radio up when the car made noises.

[Oldandfat]

I think that’s what he’s implying.

All I know is I’m not a mechanic. A quick web search resulted in a unanimous views that struts and shocks should always be replaced in pairs. All other suspension parts was a mix of replace when need, or both sides with no consensus.

I think my mechanic is honest or at least honest with what he believes.

It’s in his interest to do both sides at once. I pay the same “book hours” if I replace one side different times or both sides at once. He’s,actually better doing both at once. Truck is already on the hoist and wheels offf, torch set up, etc.

Most wear items on cars are replaced in pairs or sets because they affect the other and only have so long of a lifespan. Manufactuers have an estimated vehicle life when they make them. GM for example says 200k so a ball joint that should last 200k miles would be a "never replace it" type thing. Something like factory struts and shocks technically last less than 100k (they lose their dampening) and they'll be under deferred maintenance.

For a car under 200k, this is how I'd do things around the suspension:
Shocks and struts: pairs
Control arms: when it breaks or shows high amounts of corrosion (gonna break soon). It's not supposed to have moving components other than the bushings so breaking a control arm means something major happened.

For most people, a shock or strut is a lifetime part lol. Also anything over 200k miles for me is "fix it if it breaks or it's imminent"

Truck,has the “squeakies” again. I have one more upper, and one more lower control arm to be replaced. Is there anything else? Should I replace the tie rods now?

I like the mechanic but I don’t want to go back a 4th time in 2 months.

Am also thinking rear shocks/springs? That should be just about all the deferred stuff?

That's a hard call. Vehicles make lots of sounds and some of them don't mean much. Are you getting any vibrations or noticeably difference in ride quality? Or sounds just at certain speeds?

Driving,is,fine. Only,squeaks when going over bumps, turning it will squeak. Sometimes when I,stop it will,squeak.

Nothing,in terms of ride,quality. It Improved with the new,struts.

Just tired of,drop,truck,off. Noise goes away and comes back in a month or,few,weeks. Back to garage.

To.top it off I’m in the us and I have,72 hours to get back to Canada or I need a Covid test. Plus I,don’t want to be stranded or have a tire fall,off

[Oldandfat]

I think that’s what he’s implying.

All I know is I’m not a mechanic. A quick web search resulted in a unanimous views that struts and shocks should always be replaced in pairs. All other suspension parts was a mix of replace when need, or both sides with no consensus.

I think my mechanic is honest or at least honest with what he believes.

It’s in his interest to do both sides at once. I pay the same “book hours” if I replace one side different times or both sides at once. He’s,actually better doing both at once. Truck is already on the hoist and wheels offf, torch set up, etc.

Most wear items on cars are replaced in pairs or sets because they affect the other and only have so long of a lifespan. Manufactuers have an estimated vehicle life when they make them. GM for example says 200k so a ball joint that should last 200k miles would be a "never replace it" type thing. Something like factory struts and shocks technically last less than 100k (they lose their dampening) and they'll be under deferred maintenance.

For a car under 200k, this is how I'd do things around the suspension:
Shocks and struts: pairs
Control arms: when it breaks or shows high amounts of corrosion (gonna break soon). It's not supposed to have moving components other than the bushings so breaking a control arm means something major happened.

For most people, a shock or strut is a lifetime part lol. Also anything over 200k miles for me is "fix it if it breaks or it's imminent"

Truck,has the “squeakies” again. I have one more upper, and one more lower control arm to be replaced. Is there anything else? Should I replace the tie rods now?

I like the mechanic but I don’t want to go back a 4th time in 2 months.

Am also thinking rear shocks/springs? That should be just about all the deferred stuff?

My grandfather taught me to turn the radio up when the car made noises.

That’s what we’ve been doing! Lol

[SnakePlissken]

I think that’s what he’s implying.

All I know is I’m not a mechanic. A quick web search resulted in a unanimous views that struts and shocks should always be replaced in pairs. All other suspension parts was a mix of replace when need, or both sides with no consensus.

I think my mechanic is honest or at least honest with what he believes.

It’s in his interest to do both sides at once. I pay the same “book hours” if I replace one side different times or both sides at once. He’s,actually better doing both at once. Truck is already on the hoist and wheels offf, torch set up, etc.

Most wear items on cars are replaced in pairs or sets because they affect the other and only have so long of a lifespan. Manufactuers have an estimated vehicle life when they make them. GM for example says 200k so a ball joint that should last 200k miles would be a "never replace it" type thing. Something like factory struts and shocks technically last less than 100k (they lose their dampening) and they'll be under deferred maintenance.

For a car under 200k, this is how I'd do things around the suspension:
Shocks and struts: pairs
Control arms: when it breaks or shows high amounts of corrosion (gonna break soon). It's not supposed to have moving components other than the bushings so breaking a control arm means something major happened.

For most people, a shock or strut is a lifetime part lol. Also anything over 200k miles for me is "fix it if it breaks or it's imminent"

Truck,has the “squeakies” again. I have one more upper, and one more lower control arm to be replaced. Is there anything else? Should I replace the tie rods now?

I like the mechanic but I don’t want to go back a 4th time in 2 months.

Am also thinking rear shocks/springs? That should be just about all the deferred stuff?

That's a hard call. Vehicles make lots of sounds and some of them don't mean much. Are you getting any vibrations or noticeably difference in ride quality? Or sounds just at certain speeds?

Driving,is,fine. Only,squeaks when going over bumps, turning it will squeak. Sometimes when I,stop it will,squeak.

Nothing,in terms of ride,quality. It Improved with the new,struts.

Just tired of,drop,truck,off. Noise goes away and comes back in a month or,few,weeks. Back to garage.

To.top it off I’m in the us and I have,72 hours to get back to Canada or I need a Covid test. Plus I,don’t want to be stranded or have a tire fall,off

Doesn't sound too serious. My truck has 57k miles on it and has always made certain noises. If your ride quality is good I'd just keep an ear on it. If it gets a lot worse over time I'd check it out (like a ball joint going out will make squealing noises at highway speeds).

[Oldandfat]

I think that’s what he’s implying.

All I know is I’m not a mechanic. A quick web search resulted in a unanimous views that struts and shocks should always be replaced in pairs. All other suspension parts was a mix of replace when need, or both sides with no consensus.

I think my mechanic is honest or at least honest with what he believes.

It’s in his interest to do both sides at once. I pay the same “book hours” if I replace one side different times or both sides at once. He’s,actually better doing both at once. Truck is already on the hoist and wheels offf, torch set up, etc.

Most wear items on cars are replaced in pairs or sets because they affect the other and only have so long of a lifespan. Manufactuers have an estimated vehicle life when they make them. GM for example says 200k so a ball joint that should last 200k miles would be a "never replace it" type thing. Something like factory struts and shocks technically last less than 100k (they lose their dampening) and they'll be under deferred maintenance.

For a car under 200k, this is how I'd do things around the suspension:
Shocks and struts: pairs
Control arms: when it breaks or shows high amounts of corrosion (gonna break soon). It's not supposed to have moving components other than the bushings so breaking a control arm means something major happened.

For most people, a shock or strut is a lifetime part lol. Also anything over 200k miles for me is "fix it if it breaks or it's imminent"

Truck,has the “squeakies” again. I have one more upper, and one more lower control arm to be replaced. Is there anything else? Should I replace the tie rods now?

I like the mechanic but I don’t want to go back a 4th time in 2 months.

Am also thinking rear shocks/springs? That should be just about all the deferred stuff?

That's a hard call. Vehicles make lots of sounds and some of them don't mean much. Are you getting any vibrations or noticeably difference in ride quality? Or sounds just at certain speeds?

Driving,is,fine. Only,squeaks when going over bumps, turning it will squeak. Sometimes when I,stop it will,squeak.

Nothing,in terms of ride,quality. It Improved with the new,struts.

Just tired of,drop,truck,off. Noise goes away and comes back in a month or,few,weeks. Back to garage.

To.top it off I’m in the us and I have,72 hours to get back to Canada or I need a Covid test. Plus I,don’t want to be stranded or have a tire fall,off

Doesn't sound too serious. My truck has 57k miles on it and has always made certain noises. If your ride quality is good I'd just keep an ear on it. If it gets a lot worse over time I'd check it out (like a ball joint going out will make squealing noises at highway speeds).

Turned out to be passenger lower control arm/ball joint. 6 weeks ago it was fine when the upper was,done.

All good now. Until I,replace the driver upper in 2 weeks.

[SnakePlissken]

I think that’s what he’s implying.

All I know is I’m not a mechanic. A quick web search resulted in a unanimous views that struts and shocks should always be replaced in pairs. All other suspension parts was a mix of replace when need, or both sides with no consensus.

I think my mechanic is honest or at least honest with what he believes.

It’s in his interest to do both sides at once. I pay the same “book hours” if I replace one side different times or both sides at once. He’s,actually better doing both at once. Truck is already on the hoist and wheels offf, torch set up, etc.

Most wear items on cars are replaced in pairs or sets because they affect the other and only have so long of a lifespan. Manufactuers have an estimated vehicle life when they make them. GM for example says 200k so a ball joint that should last 200k miles would be a "never replace it" type thing. Something like factory struts and shocks technically last less than 100k (they lose their dampening) and they'll be under deferred maintenance.

For a car under 200k, this is how I'd do things around the suspension:
Shocks and struts: pairs
Control arms: when it breaks or shows high amounts of corrosion (gonna break soon). It's not supposed to have moving components other than the bushings so breaking a control arm means something major happened.

For most people, a shock or strut is a lifetime part lol. Also anything over 200k miles for me is "fix it if it breaks or it's imminent"

Truck,has the “squeakies” again. I have one more upper, and one more lower control arm to be replaced. Is there anything else? Should I replace the tie rods now?

I like the mechanic but I don’t want to go back a 4th time in 2 months.

Am also thinking rear shocks/springs? That should be just about all the deferred stuff?

That's a hard call. Vehicles make lots of sounds and some of them don't mean much. Are you getting any vibrations or noticeably difference in ride quality? Or sounds just at certain speeds?

Driving,is,fine. Only,squeaks when going over bumps, turning it will squeak. Sometimes when I,stop it will,squeak.

Nothing,in terms of ride,quality. It Improved with the new,struts.

Just tired of,drop,truck,off. Noise goes away and comes back in a month or,few,weeks. Back to garage.

To.top it off I’m in the us and I have,72 hours to get back to Canada or I need a Covid test. Plus I,don’t want to be stranded or have a tire fall,off

Doesn't sound too serious. My truck has 57k miles on it and has always made certain noises. If your ride quality is good I'd just keep an ear on it. If it gets a lot worse over time I'd check it out (like a ball joint going out will make squealing noises at highway speeds).

Turned out to be passenger lower control arm/ball joint. 6 weeks ago it was fine when the upper was,done.

All good now. Until I,replace the driver upper in 2 weeks.

I gotta say that's just bad luck haha. Good thing it's done now.

My badluck incident was my power steering pump going out in college and a week later my oil transfer pump went out lol

[Oldandfat]

I think that’s what he’s implying.

All I know is I’m not a mechanic. A quick web search resulted in a unanimous views that struts and shocks should always be replaced in pairs. All other suspension parts was a mix of replace when need, or both sides with no consensus.

I think my mechanic is honest or at least honest with what he believes.

It’s in his interest to do both sides at once. I pay the same “book hours” if I replace one side different times or both sides at once. He’s,actually better doing both at once. Truck is already on the hoist and wheels offf, torch set up, etc.

Most wear items on cars are replaced in pairs or sets because they affect the other and only have so long of a lifespan. Manufactuers have an estimated vehicle life when they make them. GM for example says 200k so a ball joint that should last 200k miles would be a "never replace it" type thing. Something like factory struts and shocks technically last less than 100k (they lose their dampening) and they'll be under deferred maintenance.

For a car under 200k, this is how I'd do things around the suspension:
Shocks and struts: pairs
Control arms: when it breaks or shows high amounts of corrosion (gonna break soon). It's not supposed to have moving components other than the bushings so breaking a control arm means something major happened.

For most people, a shock or strut is a lifetime part lol. Also anything over 200k miles for me is "fix it if it breaks or it's imminent"

Truck,has the “squeakies” again. I have one more upper, and one more lower control arm to be replaced. Is there anything else? Should I replace the tie rods now?

I like the mechanic but I don’t want to go back a 4th time in 2 months.

Am also thinking rear shocks/springs? That should be just about all the deferred stuff?

That's a hard call. Vehicles make lots of sounds and some of them don't mean much. Are you getting any vibrations or noticeably difference in ride quality? Or sounds just at certain speeds?

Driving,is,fine. Only,squeaks when going over bumps, turning it will squeak. Sometimes when I,stop it will,squeak.

Nothing,in terms of ride,quality. It Improved with the new,struts.

Just tired of,drop,truck,off. Noise goes away and comes back in a month or,few,weeks. Back to garage.

To.top it off I’m in the us and I have,72 hours to get back to Canada or I need a Covid test. Plus I,don’t want to be stranded or have a tire fall,off

Doesn't sound too serious. My truck has 57k miles on it and has always made certain noises. If your ride quality is good I'd just keep an ear on it. If it gets a lot worse over time I'd check it out (like a ball joint going out will make squealing noises at highway speeds).

Turned out to be passenger lower control arm/ball joint. 6 weeks ago it was fine when the upper was,done.

All good now. Until I,replace the driver upper in 2 weeks.

I gotta say that's just bad luck haha. Good thing it's done now.

My badluck incident was my power steering pump going out in college and a week later my oil transfer pump went out lol

The tech that worked on my truck drives a Titan (mines a frontier). He’s a Nissan fanatic. He said that nissan trucks only come in for tires, batteries, brakes, and wipers. He was surprised that my front end needed all the work.

He also said something to the effect of certain vehicles within a vin range and year range had ball joints that were too loose or too tight (under or over greased) at the factory and that my truck won that lottery.


I oil spray every year for rust so I thought that might lube the bushings.

Tech said so many variables when it comes to suspension failure. How you drive, where you drive, do you haul lots, etc. but he was still surprised especially given the low mileage.

[Oldandfat]

Another,random query.

I’m replacing my serpentine. Easy peasy. Rock auto says to replace the tensioner at the same time. I never have but the logic is old tensioner may reduce new belt life.

I noticed they also sell “kits” comprising of a new belt, tensioner, and pulley. I kinda get it. Everything’s right there and to replace the pulley is super easy.

But then why stop there? What about alternator pulley? Water pump pulley? How anal do we get?

Do they recommend replacement simply because it’s so easy?

Is it like the “replace water pump when replacing timing belt? Situation.

I’ve replaced belts but never tensioners or pulleys. Not for maintenance nor did I even have to. Even the belt looked good but replaced anyway cause, easy and cheap and it made me feel like a mechanic for 20 minutes

[mettkeks]

Another,random query.

I’m replacing my serpentine. Easy peasy. Rock auto says to replace the tensioner at the same time. I never have but the logic is old tensioner may reduce new belt life.

I noticed they also sell “kits” comprising of a new belt, tensioner, and pulley. I kinda get it. Everything’s right there and to replace the pulley is super easy.

But then why stop there? What about alternator pulley? Water pump pulley? How anal do we get?

Do they recommend replacement simply because it’s so easy?

Is it like the “replace water pump when replacing timing belt? Situation.

I’ve replaced belts but never tensioners or pulleys. Not for maintenance nor did I even have to. Even the belt looked good but replaced anyway cause, easy and cheap and it made me feel like a mechanic for 20 minutes

You don't need to replace any pulleys usually. If the tensioner is fixed and the bearing is still good, then that doesn't need replaced either. If you have (which is my guess) an automatic tensioner, they can and will wear out at some point.

I've replaced the timing chain on the Mettwagen a couple of months ago. Adjustable cam timing gears, tensioner, Plastic guides all need to be replaced. The tensioner in this case is just a hydraulic piston that pushes the guide against the chain. The gasket wears out and the tensioner would lose pressure.

[Oldandfat]

Another,random query.

I’m replacing my serpentine. Easy peasy. Rock auto says to replace the tensioner at the same time. I never have but the logic is old tensioner may reduce new belt life.

I noticed they also sell “kits” comprising of a new belt, tensioner, and pulley. I kinda get it. Everything’s right there and to replace the pulley is super easy.

But then why stop there? What about alternator pulley? Water pump pulley? How anal do we get?

Do they recommend replacement simply because it’s so easy?

Is it like the “replace water pump when replacing timing belt? Situation.

I’ve replaced belts but never tensioners or pulleys. Not for maintenance nor did I even have to. Even the belt looked good but replaced anyway cause, easy and cheap and it made me feel like a mechanic for 20 minutes

You don't need to replace any pulleys usually. If the tensioner is fixed and the bearing is still good, then that doesn't need replaced either. If you have (which is my guess) an automatic tensioner, they can and will wear out at some point.

I've replaced the timing chain on the Mettwagen a couple of months ago. Adjustable cam timing gears, tensioner, Plastic guides all need to be replaced. The tensioner in this case is just a hydraulic piston that pushes the guide against the chain. The gasket wears out and the tensioner would lose pressure.

Yup, it’s an auto tensioner. So it’s bs that I “should” replace it with the belt? Obviously rock trying to upsell.

Then again, with my history of control arms wearing out each month……..

I can easily replace belt/tensioner/pulley.

[mettkeks]

Yup, it’s an auto tensioner. So it’s bs that I “should” replace it with the belt? Obviously rock trying to upsell.

Then again, with my history of control arms wearing out each month……..

I can easily replace belt/tensioner/pulley.

You misunderstood me there. Automatic tensioners will wear out over time. Usually the spring loses tension. This will cause the belt to slip and wear earlier. They don't need to be replaced everytime If your family would have to starve for a month, but they're like $15 and no extra labour so you're better off replacing both belt and tensioner.