Stall mat thickness, gym set up opinions, or just be happy with what I have?

[Oldandfat]

Maybe it’s late, maybe it’s the covid lockdowns and limited travel. My current setup works. It’s served me well for almost 20 years. I’ve added “nice” bars over the years but my flooring / rack / dl platform is giving me thoughts in my head for improvements that are absolutely wants and not needs. Most certainly first world problems.

Just want some opinions, or even just tell me why bother. Here we go.

Gym area is 10 x 24 and covered with 3/8 stall mats. I wanted an area in the basement that “looked” like a gym and once I stepped “onto the mats” it’s a get away from life, and all the associated bullshit. Power rack is a 26 yr old parabody floor standing?? (Not a bolt down). I use sand bags to keep it from moving / sliding. My deadlift “platform” is a 4 x 4 , 3/4” plywood with 2 x 4 rubber (3/4”) ends, giving me a 4 x 8 platform. The 3 pieces are simply,laid on top of the 3/8 mats. It’s always coming apart and does drive me crazy.

As I said it works, and has served me well. But there are little things I’d like to change.

1. I like a smooth surface not the textured side. Not all my mats have a smooth side (like I said 1st world problem) mats also come apart. I can fix that with gusset plate thingies

2. When I do rack pulls I need to move the sand bags to lower the pins. It’d be nice to just bolt the rack down.

3. DL “platform” is a platform. I had in mind an entire area all flush. Basically my entire work out area could be a deadlift platform and I can move stuff around.

Possible solutions:

1. Just stop. Enjoy what I have. Covid will pass and I can travel again.
2. Replace my flooring with 3/4” mats or at least buy 5 mats. I can repurpose my existing 10 mats (3/8”) and double them up, giving me 3/4”.
If I do this I’d have to drill into my slab to bolt my rack. Doable, unless…. And I’m hoping 3/4” stall mat would be enough. I don’t oly lift and I’ve pulled 5 plates at one point. No damage to the floor. I’m getting older and I can’t see myself getting much stronger on my pulls.

3. Go wall to wall OSB (ply under the rack) 3/4” x 2 layers, then top with stall mat. Now I can bolt rack through stall mat and into plywood.

4. Compromise. Keep the 3/8 mats and for the power rack / dl area build an 8 x 8 platform (2 layers ply 3/4”, and top with mat (3/4”).

5. Keep,everything,as,is but build a dedicated dl platform.
It’d be nice to have a flush surface, but it’s not really needed.

Of all the wants, I’d really like to bolt the rack down. Even with sandbags it will move over time, and not having to,move them really would be nice so,the #4 compromise would work too.

Just some late night thoughts and ramblings. Wife thinks I’m nuts, and if it’s worked for 20 years why fuck with it?

[brkriete]

If you've got the time, energy, money and are in the mood for a change I'd build a dedicated platform for your rack and set it on top of your existing flooring but that's mostly because 1) I'm averse to drilling into concrete and 2) I've never had a 100% dry basement anywhere I've ever lived so putting down OSB/plywood seems like it's asking for mold.

[Oldandfat]

If you've got the time, energy, money and are in the mood for a change I'd build a dedicated platform for your rack and set it on top of your existing flooring but that's mostly because 1) I'm averse to drilling into concrete and 2) I've never had a 100% dry basement anywhere I've ever lived so putting down OSB/plywood seems like it's asking for mold.

My basement is always dry, but building the platform on the existing is easiest. I’m not a big fan of drilling into concrete either. Even using tapcon, and following directions, blow out the hole, etc there’s always one or more screws that don’t hold.

As for the platform itself do you think 1/2” mats would be enough? Again, first world problems: I can get a 4 x 8 stall mat but only 1/2” thick. I just cut in into two pieces but I’d have a nice 2 x 8 mat on each side of the rack (or just 2- 4 x 8 stall mats on top of the ply. If I go with a 3/4” mat they come in 4 x 6 so there’s more seams.

[Hardartery]

I'll throw out a few things, take 'em or leave 'em. It's never a good plan to put untreated wood directly against concrete, there's a reason it's against the building code. So if you want to cover your floor in OSB, it needs to be well sealed or epoxied first or you should use a treated sheathing. That aside, there is no reason to put down a layer of wood. The only real reason to use wood - like in a platform - is because the rubber compresses under your feet with load and makes for a slightly unstable surface (As well as increasing your ROM slightly and thus making the lift harder). You are super unlikely to ever damage concrete with weights, especially through even a 3/8" mat. I have lifted on concrete most of my life at whatever home gym setup I have. I have damaged concrete only a couple of times and the concrete was already damaged before I started, so arguably I only worsened existing damage and very slightly at that. And it was with more than 5 plates.

Personally, I would bolt the rack down with Redheads, directly against the concrete. Redheads (Or whatever generic equivalent, I'm not stuck on brand) are easy to install and if you ever move or don't want them anymore they break off pretty easily with a couple of hammer hits back and forth and can be patched with a little hydraulic cement if necessary. Then I'd cut the mats to fit around the rack feet as I installed or install the rack with the mats in place and already cut, I would not want the shock absorber effect of rubber feet if I could avoid it - especially not 3/4".

I would say one smooth level is nice, no trip hazard that way and easier to clean. The last thing you want is to not be able to mop once in a while or have to pull everything up in a few years because of rot in the OSB subsurface.

[Oldandfat]

Some good stuff here.

I briefly thought about dry-core underlay and then stall mats,but the rack screws would likely strip through.

If you look at most cross fit boxes the simply lay 3/4” stall mats directly on concrete, and the racks/rigs are either bolted on top of the Mats , or the Mats are cut so the rack mounting flange sits flush with the mats. It’s actually a nice clean look.

Problem is that my rack doesn’t have mounting flanges, it’s 2 x 2 tubing and a flat foot model. So to screw through 2 x 2 tubing, a mat, and then concrete doesn’t seem like it’s as strong as screwing through a flange.

This could give me an excuse for a new rack< lol. Always,wanted an r3. I press outside my rack as it’s short. I’d feel safer inside

[TimK]

3. Go wall to wall OSB (ply under the rack) 3/4” x 2 layers, then top with stall mat. Now I can bolt rack through stall mat and into plywood.

This is what I did. It's nice to not have to ever worry about tripping on the edge of the platform when going back and forth to load plates, etc. and I prefer the mats everywhere vs lifting on plywood, mainly for the extra traction and no worries about bench moving with leg drive or banging up the wood with a deadlift jack.

[Oldandfat]

3. Go wall to wall OSB (ply under the rack) 3/4” x 2 layers, then top with stall mat. Now I can bolt rack through stall mat and into plywood.

This is what I did. It's nice to not have to ever worry about tripping on the edge of the platform when going back and forth to load plates, etc. and I prefer the mats everywhere vs lifting on plywood, mainly for the extra traction and no worries about bench moving with leg drive or banging up the wood with a deadlift jack.

This is exactly why my rack and bench are on mats, and my deadlift platform has the wood in the middle. Ya, the wood gets chewed from the jack. Another reason for wall to wall mat.

[FredM]

3. Go wall to wall OSB (ply under the rack) 3/4” x 2 layers, then top with stall mat. Now I can bolt rack through stall mat and into plywood.

This is what I did. It's nice to not have to ever worry about tripping on the edge of the platform when going back and forth to load plates, etc. and I prefer the mats everywhere vs lifting on plywood, mainly for the extra traction and no worries about bench moving with leg drive or banging up the wood with a deadlift jack.

This is exactly why my rack and bench are on mats, and my deadlift platform has the wood in the middle. Ya, the wood gets chewed from the jack. Another reason for wall to wall mat.

Third this. If I could do everything over again I'd 100% just lay 3/4" horse stall mats wall to wall and buy a non-bolt down "rack." If you're married to your rack/bolting it down, then I think this is the best solution.

I hate my platform. My bench slips on it. My jack has chipped the wood in a couple of spots and I'm anal about stuff like that. I have to wear shoes to sumo pull and kettlebell swing. A big constraint for squat shoes was they're grippy enough on wood. Etc. The only reason I built one was because the internet told me to when I first started lifting. Even if I ever got into Oly lifting again I'd rather just buy some drop pads.

[Oldandfat]

I have 10 4 x6 mats @3/8”.

My compromise will be buying 5 , 4 x 6 mts @ 3/ 4”. This,gives me a 10 x,12 area for the rack and deadlifting.
I,will,double up my 10 3/8 mats to give,me a 3/4” thickness for the balance.

My rack,area will be all smooth so,that’s a,want.

I’ll,still,have to move the sand bags to,rack,pull, but I,don’t rack pull often so I’ll deal.

I’ll be deadlifting on a 3/4” mats instead of a 3/4” mat on top of a 3/8 mat. I don’t think it’ll be wrong. It’s not like I’m oly lifting. 4 plate pulls. Can’t really see 5 plates in the future.

Mats are 92,bucks each and they’ll deliver for 35 bucks. Sold! Mending plates to keep it all together.

And at the end of the day I,can always bolt rack down if I,really want to.

I think I may even get some of that leveler stuff manveer used. My basement floor has a wee bit of slope (for the floor drain).

It’s not a lot but enough to,cause my bar to move on deadlifts. Sometimes I deadlift on an angle to,the,wall. Drives me crazy

[Oldandfat]

Ok so more covid restricted thinking:

Now I’m thinking a platform so I can bolt the rack down and ditch the sandbags.

I can go 8 x8, or 8 x6.

I also want as few as possible seams in the mats. I can do an 8 x 8 platform and I can get 4 x 8 stall mats BUT they are only 1/2” not 3/4”. Is 1/2” mats on top of 2 layers 3/4 ply sufficient

If I go 6 x 8 platform I can get away with 2 3/4” mats.

6 x 8 looks weird to me but it’s enough for the rack, and deadlifting. I,can frame it all in with some nice stained wood cause I’m covid bored.

[Hardartery]

Ok so more covid restricted thinking:

Now I’m thinking a platform so I can bolt the rack down and ditch the sandbags.

I can go 8 x8, or 8 x6.

I also want as few as possible seams in the mats. I can do an 8 x 8 platform and I can get 4 x 8 stall mats BUT they are only 1/2” not 3/4”. Is 1/2” mats on top of 2 layers 3/4 ply sufficient

If I go 6 x 8 platform I can get away with 2 3/4” mats.

6 x 8 looks weird to me but it’s enough for the rack, and deadlifting. I,can frame it all in with some nice stained wood cause I’m covid bored.

Unless you're Wilt Chamberlain, 6x8 should be fine for what ever you have going on. I've even seen 4x8 platforms that worked for most things.

[Oldandfat]

Ok so more covid restricted thinking:

Now I’m thinking a platform so I can bolt the rack down and ditch the sandbags.

I can go 8 x8, or 8 x6.

I also want as few as possible seams in the mats. I can do an 8 x 8 platform and I can get 4 x 8 stall mats BUT they are only 1/2” not 3/4”. Is 1/2” mats on top of 2 layers 3/4 ply sufficient

If I go 6 x 8 platform I can get away with 2 3/4” mats.

6 x 8 looks weird to me but it’s enough for the rack, and deadlifting. I,can frame it all in with some nice stained wood cause I’m covid bored.

Unless you're Wilt Chamberlain, 6x8 should be fine for what ever you have going on. I've even seen 4x8 platforms that worked for most things.

I’m looking at 6 x 8 simply because I can top it with 2 stall mats with no cutting and only one seam.

Now I can order 4 x 8 mats 3/4” but they are very expensive and shipping is more than the mats are worth.

But I can get a local mat 4 x 8 but it’s only 1/2”. Ya think 1/2” over 2 layers of 3/4 ply will suffice?

Everything Ive read is either 2 layers of ply topped with 3/4” mat, or simply 3/4” mat on concrete (most CrossFit boxes). No one seems to be ripping up concrete (I’ve only pulled 5 plates for a single and I’m gonna get weaker as I age).

So I’m keeping my 10 x 24 area with 3/8” mats. My “lift” area will go right on top. 2 layers of ply. Still thinking of how thick a mat to top with.

[Hardartery]

Ok so more covid restricted thinking:

Now I’m thinking a platform so I can bolt the rack down and ditch the sandbags.

I can go 8 x8, or 8 x6.

I also want as few as possible seams in the mats. I can do an 8 x 8 platform and I can get 4 x 8 stall mats BUT they are only 1/2” not 3/4”. Is 1/2” mats on top of 2 layers 3/4 ply sufficient

If I go 6 x 8 platform I can get away with 2 3/4” mats.

6 x 8 looks weird to me but it’s enough for the rack, and deadlifting. I,can frame it all in with some nice stained wood cause I’m covid bored.

Unless you're Wilt Chamberlain, 6x8 should be fine for what ever you have going on. I've even seen 4x8 platforms that worked for most things.

I’m looking at 6 x 8 simply because I can top it with 2 stall mats with no cutting and only one seam.

Now I can order 4 x 8 mats 3/4” but they are very expensive and shipping is more than the mats are worth.

But I can get a local mat 4 x 8 but it’s only 1/2”. Ya think 1/2” over 2 layers of 3/4 ply will suffice?

Everything Ive read is either 2 layers of ply topped with 3/4” mat, or simply 3/4” mat on concrete (most CrossFit boxes). No one seems to be ripping up concrete (I’ve only pulled 5 plates for a single and I’m gonna get weaker as I age).

So I’m keeping my 10 x 24 area with 3/8” mats. My “lift” area will go right on top. 2 layers of ply. Still thinking of how thick a mat to top with.

In my experience, the rubber is really more of a protection for the plates and it works as a sound dampener. It's really a question of whether or not you think the mat will take the abuse. If the mat is not going to get cut by the plates, it's thick enough.

[Oldandfat]

Ok so more covid restricted thinking:

Now I’m thinking a platform so I can bolt the rack down and ditch the sandbags.

I can go 8 x8, or 8 x6.

I also want as few as possible seams in the mats. I can do an 8 x 8 platform and I can get 4 x 8 stall mats BUT they are only 1/2” not 3/4”. Is 1/2” mats on top of 2 layers 3/4 ply sufficient

If I go 6 x 8 platform I can get away with 2 3/4” mats.

6 x 8 looks weird to me but it’s enough for the rack, and deadlifting. I,can frame it all in with some nice stained wood cause I’m covid bored.

Unless you're Wilt Chamberlain, 6x8 should be fine for what ever you have going on. I've even seen 4x8 platforms that worked for most things.

I’m looking at 6 x 8 simply because I can top it with 2 stall mats with no cutting and only one seam.

Now I can order 4 x 8 mats 3/4” but they are very expensive and shipping is more than the mats are worth.

But I can get a local mat 4 x 8 but it’s only 1/2”. Ya think 1/2” over 2 layers of 3/4 ply will suffice?

Everything Ive read is either 2 layers of ply topped with 3/4” mat, or simply 3/4” mat on concrete (most CrossFit boxes). No one seems to be ripping up concrete (I’ve only pulled 5 plates for a single and I’m gonna get weaker as I age).

So I’m keeping my 10 x 24 area with 3/8” mats. My “lift” area will go right on top. 2 layers of ply. Still thinking of how thick a mat to top with.

In my experience, the rubber is really more of a protection for the plates and it works as a sound dampener. It's really a question of whether or not you think the mat will take the abuse. If the mat is not going to get cut by the plates, it's thick enough.

Well I’m thinking 1/2” stall mat will suffice. It’s not quite what they use,for horses but it’s used it hockey,rinks for,skaters to walk over. I ,sure it will stand up,to my 5 plate pull every,now,and,then. If not I’ll just replace with 3/4

[Hardartery]

Ok so more covid restricted thinking:

Now I’m thinking a platform so I can bolt the rack down and ditch the sandbags.

I can go 8 x8, or 8 x6.

I also want as few as possible seams in the mats. I can do an 8 x 8 platform and I can get 4 x 8 stall mats BUT they are only 1/2” not 3/4”. Is 1/2” mats on top of 2 layers 3/4 ply sufficient

If I go 6 x 8 platform I can get away with 2 3/4” mats.

6 x 8 looks weird to me but it’s enough for the rack, and deadlifting. I,can frame it all in with some nice stained wood cause I’m covid bored.

Unless you're Wilt Chamberlain, 6x8 should be fine for what ever you have going on. I've even seen 4x8 platforms that worked for most things.

I’m looking at 6 x 8 simply because I can top it with 2 stall mats with no cutting and only one seam.

Now I can order 4 x 8 mats 3/4” but they are very expensive and shipping is more than the mats are worth.

But I can get a local mat 4 x 8 but it’s only 1/2”. Ya think 1/2” over 2 layers of 3/4 ply will suffice?

Everything Ive read is either 2 layers of ply topped with 3/4” mat, or simply 3/4” mat on concrete (most CrossFit boxes). No one seems to be ripping up concrete (I’ve only pulled 5 plates for a single and I’m gonna get weaker as I age).

So I’m keeping my 10 x 24 area with 3/8” mats. My “lift” area will go right on top. 2 layers of ply. Still thinking of how thick a mat to top with.

In my experience, the rubber is really more of a protection for the plates and it works as a sound dampener. It's really a question of whether or not you think the mat will take the abuse. If the mat is not going to get cut by the plates, it's thick enough.

Well I’m thinking 1/2” stall mat will suffice. It’s not quite what they use,for horses but it’s used it hockey,rinks for,skaters to walk over. I ,sure it will stand up,to my 5 plate pull every,now,and,then. If not I’ll just replace with 3/4

I think you'll be good to go, most guys are overbuilding to be honest.

[Oldandfat]

I'll throw out a few things, take 'em or leave 'em. It's never a good plan to put untreated wood directly against concrete, there's a reason it's against the building code. So if you want to cover your floor in OSB, it needs to be well sealed or epoxied first or you should use a treated sheathing. That aside, there is no reason to put down a layer of wood. The only real reason to use wood - like in a platform - is because the rubber compresses under your feet with load and makes for a slightly unstable surface (As well as increasing your ROM slightly and thus making the lift harder). You are super unlikely to ever damage concrete with weights, especially through even a 3/8" mat. I have lifted on concrete most of my life at whatever home gym setup I have. I have damaged concrete only a couple of times and the concrete was already damaged before I started, so arguably I only worsened existing damage and very slightly at that. And it was with more than 5 plates.

Personally, I would bolt the rack down with Redheads, directly against the concrete. Redheads (Or whatever generic equivalent, I'm not stuck on brand) are easy to install and if you ever move or don't want them anymore they break off pretty easily with a couple of hammer hits back and forth and can be patched with a little hydraulic cement if necessary. Then I'd cut the mats to fit around the rack feet as I installed or install the rack with the mats in place and already cut, I would not want the shock absorber effect of rubber feet if I could avoid it - especially not 3/4".

I would say one smooth level is nice, no trip hazard that way and easier to clean. The last thing you want is to not be able to mop once in a while or have to pull everything up in a few years because of rot in the OSB subsurface.

Any reason you’d use red heads instead of tapcon? Anytime I’ve used tapcon there’s always 1 or 2 that “spin” on me. I use the correct bit, correct depth, blow the hole out, etc. same issue with redhead?

Anything better?

[Hardartery]

I'll throw out a few things, take 'em or leave 'em. It's never a good plan to put untreated wood directly against concrete, there's a reason it's against the building code. So if you want to cover your floor in OSB, it needs to be well sealed or epoxied first or you should use a treated sheathing. That aside, there is no reason to put down a layer of wood. The only real reason to use wood - like in a platform - is because the rubber compresses under your feet with load and makes for a slightly unstable surface (As well as increasing your ROM slightly and thus making the lift harder). You are super unlikely to ever damage concrete with weights, especially through even a 3/8" mat. I have lifted on concrete most of my life at whatever home gym setup I have. I have damaged concrete only a couple of times and the concrete was already damaged before I started, so arguably I only worsened existing damage and very slightly at that. And it was with more than 5 plates.

Personally, I would bolt the rack down with Redheads, directly against the concrete. Redheads (Or whatever generic equivalent, I'm not stuck on brand) are easy to install and if you ever move or don't want them anymore they break off pretty easily with a couple of hammer hits back and forth and can be patched with a little hydraulic cement if necessary. Then I'd cut the mats to fit around the rack feet as I installed or install the rack with the mats in place and already cut, I would not want the shock absorber effect of rubber feet if I could avoid it - especially not 3/4".

I would say one smooth level is nice, no trip hazard that way and easier to clean. The last thing you want is to not be able to mop once in a while or have to pull everything up in a few years because of rot in the OSB subsurface.

Any reason you’d use red heads instead of tapcon? Anytime I’ve used tapcon there’s always 1 or 2 that “spin” on me. I use the correct bit, correct depth, blow the hole out, etc. same issue with redhead?

Anything better?

Redhead's are much stronger, Tapcons are okay, but it's asking a lot of them to hold a rack in place. They do go in better with an impact gun at low speed than anything else if you do use them, less stripping out issues than with a drill or even a screwdriver in your hand. Those little cordless impact guns are really way more awesome than I expected.

[PuddingFace]

I'll throw out a few things, take 'em or leave 'em. It's never a good plan to put untreated wood directly against concrete, there's a reason it's against the building code. So if you want to cover your floor in OSB, it needs to be well sealed or epoxied first or you should use a treated sheathing. That aside, there is no reason to put down a layer of wood. The only real reason to use wood - like in a platform - is because the rubber compresses under your feet with load and makes for a slightly unstable surface (As well as increasing your ROM slightly and thus making the lift harder). You are super unlikely to ever damage concrete with weights, especially through even a 3/8" mat. I have lifted on concrete most of my life at whatever home gym setup I have. I have damaged concrete only a couple of times and the concrete was already damaged before I started, so arguably I only worsened existing damage and very slightly at that. And it was with more than 5 plates.

Personally, I would bolt the rack down with Redheads, directly against the concrete. Redheads (Or whatever generic equivalent, I'm not stuck on brand) are easy to install and if you ever move or don't want them anymore they break off pretty easily with a couple of hammer hits back and forth and can be patched with a little hydraulic cement if necessary. Then I'd cut the mats to fit around the rack feet as I installed or install the rack with the mats in place and already cut, I would not want the shock absorber effect of rubber feet if I could avoid it - especially not 3/4".

I would say one smooth level is nice, no trip hazard that way and easier to clean. The last thing you want is to not be able to mop once in a while or have to pull everything up in a few years because of rot in the OSB subsurface.

Any reason you’d use red heads instead of tapcon? Anytime I’ve used tapcon there’s always 1 or 2 that “spin” on me. I use the correct bit, correct depth, blow the hole out, etc. same issue with redhead?

Anything better?

Drop-in internal threaded anchors are good if you might want to move the rack later. No stud to grind & fill. Downside is you have to be sure you won’t drill all the way through the slab.

[Hardartery]

Drop-in internal threaded anchors are good if you might want to move the rack later. No stud to grind & fill. Downside is you have to be sure you won’t drill all the way through the slab.

Studs break off if you hit 'em back and forth a couple of times with a hammer, no grinding necessary. Drilling through the slab is usually irrelevant, honestly. It doesn't really affect anything, except maybe making a hole in the visquine underneath (If it actually has any layed down, and somehow has no penetrations already - which is super unlikely).

[PuddingFace]

Drop-in internal threaded anchors are good if you might want to move the rack later. No stud to grind & fill. Downside is you have to be sure you won’t drill all the way through the slab.

Studs break off if you hit 'em back and forth a couple of times with a hammer, no grinding necessary. Drilling through the slab is usually irrelevant, honestly. It doesn't really affect anything, except maybe making a hole in the visquine underneath (If it actually has any layed down, and somehow has no penetrations already - which is super unlikely).

Drop-ins you will just pound through when setting if you drill through the concrete. How many hits does it take to break off a 1” redhead with 2” sticking out of the concrete? Just curious.