CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)

[cgeorg]

Went on a lil' beach vacation to Lewes/Rehoboth/Dewey. Was mostly nice, annoyed my shoulder with disc golf in Henlopen and auto-frisbee at the beach.

----

2023-08-23

Bench
90x10
105x8
112x6
120x4
127x2
135x1 yay
120x13@5?

That last set surprised and delighted me. Really locking in the lats seems to keep my shoulder ok, some clicking but no pain.

Cuban Rotations
10sx10x3

SGDL
135x8
155x6
170x4
180x2
165x6

All of this is still quite easy, once I get through the 3 lift cycle I'll probably bump TM a good bit, although I guess there's no race. Decided a 155x6+ set was dumb and changed it to 165x6. Also decided 1lb increments on SGDL is dumb and rounded everything. Got 5 on the first set DOH, might have had a 6th but switched to straps on that rep rather than fuck it up. I did hang from the pullup bar on just my left hand though. I think I could DOH DL a decent bit.

Press
54x10
63x8
67x7
72x4
63x12

Some bicep pain that I'm assuming was related to shoulder impingement.

Supine BB Row
80x[12,12,10]

Still too light.

---

I'd welcome thoughts on adapting the Zak method to SGDL, I basically changed it from x10/x8/x6/x4/x2/x1 to x8/x6/x4/x2/x1/x1. Maybe I bump that first x1 to x2? Or I could just count down from 6 to 1, that would leave room for some decent + sets at the end. Wife hates squatting for reps so I made hers x5/x4/x3/x2/x1/x1. Maybe the SGDL is fine as is, if the goal is general fitness and climbing, I don't need that much top-end strength and endurance is pretty dang useful.

[cgeorg]

Went camping over the weekend in Ohiopyle.

Pros:
- Nature
- Sitting around and cooking over a campfire
- Bouldering for a couple hours, sending a couple of V1 and a V2, with a nice 1.5mi hike in and out carrying a crash pad and climbing gear for my cardio

Cons:
- Rain the night before I climbed, so everything was wet
- Humidity causing sheets to feel wet when sleeping
- Poison ivy
- Packing up at the boulders in a rush bc the girls' hike finished sooner than I expected, skipping a pocket check and subsequently making another 3mi round trip for my vape. But it was like $50 and I'd have gone back if I left a $50 bill.

8/10, would camp again.

2023-08-28

Wrote out the workouts due for wife and I, but she didn't lift and I got excited about my chance to do my EMOM bench so I skipped to the next day for me and it'll probably end up fucking up our rhythm when she just decides to lift tomorrow or something.

Bench
103x7x9emom

Set 8 was more like 6+1, set 9 was more like 4+1+1+1, so I figured I got enough stimulus.

SGDL
135x8
155x6
170x4 or 5
180x2
190x1
170x6 or 7

Every time I got to the 4th rep on the 170 set it felt like I'd only done 3, so I did another one. Early sets were rough, others just felt heavier than I wanted them to. Might still be a bit under recovered from shitty camping sleep.

I don't think I like the x8. We'll see how I feel about it next sesh.

Press
55x10
63x8
67x6
72x4
76x2
67x12

All good

Supine BB Row
90x10x3

Closer, last rep was probably cheaty.

Cuban Rotations
10sx10x1

The poison ivy on my leg was starting to kill me and all I could think about was the shower, so I did the set of cubans between 2 and 3 of rows and called it. Jazzed to climb tomorrow and hopefully send that 5.11c I almost got last time I was on a rope.

[cgeorg]

I'd welcome thoughts on adapting the Zak method to SGDL, I basically changed it from x10/x8/x6/x4/x2/x1 to x8/x6/x4/x2/x1/x1. Maybe I bump that first x1 to x2? Or I could just count down from 6 to 1, that would leave room for some decent + sets at the end. Wife hates squatting for reps so I made hers x5/x4/x3/x2/x1/x1. Maybe the SGDL is fine as is, if the goal is general fitness and climbing, I don't need that much top-end strength and endurance is pretty dang useful.

Not sure what I was talking about with that bit. After today, I thought my concern was about the early sets being too repful, but looking back it was easy last time. Definitely seems like I should just give it another mini cycle as-is and autoregulate a session downwards if needed.

[cgeorg]

...and my wife just reminded me that I carried 40 retaining wall blocks weighing (somewhere north of 50lbs?) out to the curb yesterday. 50 paces laden, about 36 fresh. Call it 100 feet? Probably explains SGDL

[cgeorg]

2023-08-01

Top Rope
5.11cxF
This was possibly the funnest sport climb I've tried. Made it about 80 of the way, got my feet too high and couldn't recover. After hanging on the rope for a bit and re-thinking beta I finished it up, I think it will go next time. The holds are fairly rock-like, and I think it climbs more like an outdoor route than many. Lots of balancy, try-not-to-barn-door stuff. Can't wait to get back on it next week.

Got it yesterday. Tried another 5.11something, I think c, that had weird holds where you really had to feel for the good spots. I can't feel with my left hand, there was lots of falling and I gave up about 60% of the way up. Feeling both good and bad about climbing right now, it's weird. Need to build up crimp strength. There was also another 5.11c that I got in 2 parts, might be able to put it together next time. Need to find a better rest, I think a little lower than the one I used.

2023-08-30

Bench
95x10
110x8
120x6
127x4
110x16@5 maybe?

well hello

Cuban Rotations
12.5sx[10,8,8]

This felt like a more appropriate weight than 10s.

Pistol Squat
BWx5x3
+
Pullups
BWx[6,5,6]

Bodyweight had dropped to low 170s between keto and the injury. Got lax with keto lately to the point that I am never in ketosis and could at most be considered somewhat low carb. Back to around 180, and most of the weight doesn't seem to be visible fat, so that's cool.

[cgeorg]

Had a bunch of yardwork that took the place of lifting, and my right hand had some joints that were getting annoyed so I took a week off of climbing, then my right shoulder was acting up and both hands were being weird. In golfing news, I shot 44 on an easier 9 last week and 95 today on a tougher 18, putting really needs some work. 2 4 putts and 3 3 putts, that's 7 strokes right there. Also still struggling with a push, which I can mostly fix by trying to keep my weight back a bit, but it's hard. My driver is launching super high too, even set at 8.5 degrees.

Back at it.

2023-09-10

Bench
95x10
110x8
120x6
127x4
135x2
120x14

Cuban Rotations
10sx12x3

Easier than the last 10sx12x3

SGDL
135x10 (oops, shoulda been 8)
155x6
170x4
180x2
190x1
200x1
180x8

DOH on the set of 10, was starting to go at the end. Had to reset my grip twice.

Press
55x10
63x8
67x6
72x4
76x2
81x1
72x8

Got some pains down the outside of my right arm on a few sets, not a fan of that.

BB Row
95x[10,8,8]

[cgeorg]

Climbed yesterday, did a 5.10c, a 5.11a that I had initially not wanted to try due to pockets and it feeling like a high gravity day, and a 5.10a. Tried a 5.11c and fell on a move where I couldn't see a needed foot, then once I located it fell on the next move, then almost got it the next time but it was a big move to an undercling/sidepull with the left hand and I caught it just with my middle and ring fingers. With my right hand I'd be able to get my index finger where it needed to be but with my left hand, once I'm pulling with 2 fingers I can't get a third to move very well at all. Maybe, but not likely, next time. Also played with a v4-6 boulder that I think I can get but there's a jump where you go right hand first and all of that going through my shoulder was not good at the end of a session, and with my shoulder being generally cranky.

--

2023-09-13

BW 176 on a scale that reads a lb or 2 light

Bench
95x10
110x8
120x6
127x4
135x2
143x1
127x14

127x14 had less left in the tank than 120x14, probably @6 or 7. There were a lot more sounds coming from my shoulder today even with really nicely tucked scapulae and elbows. Bumping training 1RM to 170. The rep counts on these plus sets indicate a pretty high E1RM but the weight feels heavy in my hands and again, just taking it slow with the shoulder. If I continue adding 10lbs every cycle and lifting twice a week I'll be at 230 in 2 months, and 3 weeks after that my top single would actually be 225. And honestly that is probably a stretch. No rush, I'm in this for the long game.

Cuban Rotations
12.5sx8x3

Tough today. Tucking scaps helps.

Pistol Squat
BWx7x3

+2 reps on every set and they didn't feel that bad.

Pullups
BWx[6,6,8]

Nice jump over last time. I felt light and strong. Slightly wider grip and a proud chest made for 0 shoulder issues.

[cgeorg]

2023-09-16

The cat's away, and the mouse didn't want to get their sessions off-course, so he just did

Bench E70s
110x7x9

My shoulder liked it less and less as it went on. Set 10 seemed like it would be irresponsible. I think every bit of my conditioning is there to do 65%x7x10 EMOM, except for the shoulder. Also 110 is definitely sub-65% but let's just pretend.

God it's hard to not be embarrassed writing those numbers about bench. Egos are fickle things. I choose instead to feel pride for my bravery in exercising restraint and baring myself to a small, friendly corner of the world.

Half-crimp hangs 20mm edge
A bunch at BW-35. Right knuckles a bit annoyed afterwards but they seem to have given up their complaints a few hours later.

[cgeorg]

CMG's Log (6', 178lbs, LLL, Climbing, Shoulder Pain)

Climbed Sunday morning and my shoulder felt fine, but by bedtime I was in need of a bunch of ibuprofen and that did not carry over to the morning.

2023-09-18

Bench
102x10
120x8
127x6
136x4
120x8

These were all basically 1-1-1 tempo, which kept my shoulder mostly happy, but I started getting some pain down the outside of my arm so cut the + off the last 8.

Cuban Rotations
10sx10x3

Mobility was such that my forearms would not go below parallel.

SGDL
144x8
168x6
180x4
192x2
168x11

DOH on everything which was awesome, and it actually felt like I was moving some weight. I'll take that. I didn't expect to be able to stay strap free at these weights, but I'll ride it til I can't.

Press
57x10
68x8

Scratched the rest, did these at about 2-1-2 tempo and that pain on the outside of my arm indicated that I should stop.

Supine BB Row
95x12x3

Might not be isolating my back as well as I'd like on these, but they did all touch my belly button. Will probably keep it here for a sesh or 2 and build some mind-muscle connection.

[cgeorg]

2023-09-20

Bench
45x5

Nope, not today

Pistol Squats
BWx[6,5,4]

Did the first rep with my usual "touch the safety to assist with balance", then the second I decided to see if I had a free-standing one in me. I did, and 4 more on top of it. Did the same on the other leg, and the next 2 sets were completely unassisted. Didn't think I actually had that many in me, cool to see. Bright spot on a shitty shoulder day.

Other shoulder junk
Banded shoulder junk

[broseph]

Damn. Always satisfying to crush a “let’s see if I can do this thing most people can’t do” movement.

[cgeorg]

Damn. Always satisfying to crush a “let’s see if I can do this thing most people can’t do” movement.

It was a delightful surprise

2023-09-23

Shoulder is still being a shitbag. Couldn't even do rows. Did some rehab stuff, face pulls felt great but a dead hang from the bar felt as bad as it did before I started PT back in Feb.

SGDL
144x8
168x6
180x4
192x2
205x1
180x10

DOH on everything again. Felt harder than last time but then I banged out 10 at 180 so...

[cgeorg]

Golf
43 last Thursday with a blowup 7 on a par 4 and a double on a par 3. I want that 40 this year.

2023-10-02

Shoulder is being less of a shitbag, though still kind of a shitbag. Started out with a bunch of stuff like band pull aparts, external rotations, scarecrows. Found that front raises and lateral raises are ok, but that 45* spot in between is bad. Info to take to the ortho, with whom I need to make an appointment. Did some bench warmups at 3 different grip widths and different upper back tightenings and the non-stop crunching/grinding made me feel like skipping it, but then I figured hey no pain let's just see.

Bench
102x10
120x8
127x6
136x4
144x2

Skipped the backoff+ set for hopefully reduced shitbagginess.

DB OHP
15sx[12,12,10]

Still the little pain heading down the outside of my arm on these, more info for the ortho.

SGDL
144x8
168x6
180x4
192x2
201x1
216x1
192x10

DOH on everything til the backoff, which I strapped up for. Quads were the limiting factor there. Bumping to 250 for the next cycle though it could certainly go higher. Feel like I could probably pull 3 plates conventional right now, and it wouldn't be limit.

Supine BB Row
95x[12,12,10]

Mid 2nd set I switched from an "elbows back and up" cue to a "shoulder blades in and down" cue and that changed things quite a bit. I think I'll keep that new cue for a bit.

Gonna try out climbing tomorrow assuming I wake up with a working shoulder. It feels ok right now.

[cgeorg]

I did wake up with a working shouler, and did some good climbing - flashed a v3-5, and got all but the top 2 moves on a v4-6. Missed a workout w/wife due to schedule stuff. Shot 40 on Thursday with a damn double bogey on 9, so the hunt to Break 40 continues. Also bowled pretty well that night, shot 695.

Climbed today and got that v4-6 on the first try, and then repeated it because wifey asked for a video. Also flashed another v3-5 and worked some harder climbs. Will lift tomorrow. She did the 3rd Bench workout, so I think I will just join her back at 1 without bumping my weights due to the recent shoulder shittiness. I see an ortho for that on Weds, and my hand surgeon on Tuesday for a checkup on that. Still can't bend my thumb, but feeling is coming back to my palm and the first section of finger. The signals are a bit confused - if I touch my thumb I feel it there and also in my index finger. Lightly running my finger over my palm is a whirlwind of sensation.

[cgeorg]

Ortho took some x-rays and found a shadow on the inferior medial side of the ball of the humerus. Ordered an MRI/Arthrogram, and the referral mentions eval for SLAP tear. He didn't say anything about cessation of activities, though now that I'm reading up on those it seems like I should maybe not bench/press for a bit. The symptoms certainly fit. Not sure about climbing. Imaging is scheduled for 11/8.

[cgeorg]

I've also been doing no-hangs as part of my rehab, got up to 27.5lbs and that's where my left hand is currently saying it is maxed strength-wise. I was doing those at 40lbs pre-injury.

Haven't been lifting because what's the point if I can't bench. I should be DLing and pistoling but ... whatever. I did get back into no-hang training. I easily did the protocol I was talking about above for 45lbs today, so that's pretty cool. Then, switched to a 40mm edge and made my way up to 115lbs for 3 sets of 5s holds. Monday, I did 65lbs for 3? 5? sets of 5 quick reps on the 20mm edge. Progress. I am blindly hoping that the heavy weight will do something to release more scar tissue. I'm pretty sure my right hand could take 1/2bw on the 20mm edge right now, I should check that. I need my left hand to get there.

[cgeorg]

Got the MRI, doc said I have a lil' SLAP tear and chondritis due to a ton of missing cartilage at the top of the joint. Got a steroid injection, and told not to do OHP-type stuff. The injection was about a week and a half ago, took about 4 days to kick in and while I still occasionally get a brief pain it's never the long dull achy pain that it used to be. I can deal with that.

Haven't lifted since the last update.

Have been climbing fairly consistently twice a week, and starting to get more regular hangboarding in (20mm edge, usually BWx5s, BWx7s, BWx10sx8). I've also found that having a bit more intensity in my warmup really helps with session endurance and not getting pumped too quickly - I do some easier general warmup and then a ~4s, ~7s, ~10s hang, and things go much better. I think I've gotten better as well. I climbed two 5.12- routes, flashing one, on the shorter wall a few Sundays ago, then the following Tuesday I on-sighted a 5.12a on the big wall, it was a hell of a fight and felt fantastic. I've also bumped up a tag level in my boulder projecting, sending two v4-6 tags in a session and having my best feeling bouldering comp.

Been working on a built-in cabinet unit where there used to be a built-in closet in my office. I have the kickplate, bottom boxes, and now face done. Nothing about this project is square. The walls are not true due to they were plaster and not great, and I had to build out a lot of wall with mud which I think I'm decent at for an amateur but not good enough at for that kind of thing. Bought an old craftsman table saw off craigslist, tried to get things pretty squared up but couldn't get a few things fully dialed in until the boxes had been built, so that caused some issues. It's been very fun, despite stupid little difficulties like finding proper screws anywhere locally. Wish I had a planer and a table for my miter saw and a bigger table for the table saw and room for a shop. Wondering how I can work building a proper workspace in with house projects.

Oh, I shot 38. Double bogey on 2, birdie on 4, bogie on 9. There was a drive into the sun, I didn't see it but it felt like a small fade, my partners saw it and said fairway or right rough. Couldn't find it, there was some tall grass about 20 yards right of where they thought I should be, so I took a drop from there and a 1 stroke penalty. Even if you make that 2 strokes it's a 39.

[cgeorg]

Climbed yesterday, sent 2 v4-6s and the hardest one I've gotten from the comp, it's not tagged with a grade yet but it's minimum v4-6. The first one I got I would not have sent 2 months ago, tough crimps with tough body positions and I would not have been able to hold on. 2nd one I have no idea how it got the grade it did, it's probably v3 or soft v4, to me at least. Usually when I cruise them, they're pretty powerful and that suits me, but aside from a slightly tricky start there wasn't a lot going on. The comp one I'm very proud of, very techy slab boulder with a heinous gaston (outward side pull, away from your center of mass) crimp in the middle. Once I had sorted out the sequence I gave it a go and hit that hold with my index, middle, and ring fingers of left hand. Index popped off, then middle, and I held it with my ring. Fell on the next move and the spot where I'd popped a pulley tendon in that ring finger a few years back was aching pretty good. I needed to change shoes to get a bit more pressure through one hold, so I went over to my bag, did that, taped up that joint, and sent it next go. Anyway, I used to call myself a v5 climber because I'd sent a couple but I think I'm now solidly in the heart of it, and the hangboarding I've been doing seems to be paying dividends. Onwards and upwards.

My lifting log is officially a new Cap'n Crunch flavor - OOPS! All Climbing. I wouldn't mind getting back into some deadlifts and light bench but that stall of the garage has been turned into a workshop as I build a built-in cabinet for my office and it's a dusty disaster. Excuses really, there's still room.

I think I finally have my saws fairly true but this is my first time doing anything real like this since high school woodshop. It's been fun, but hard to work around some of the issues caused by slightly out-of-true tools. The 2 base boxes, kick box, and face are done. Drawers and door are next, and I don't have a dado stack or router or sled yet, and I'm planning on shaker style fronts, so the mortise/tenon bit is going to be fun. Very thankful I'm doing paint grade. Somewhat unthankful that the Blum undermount drawer slides that I'm planning on are an extra $10-15 for the ones that work with >5/8" material, and the ply I was going to use is 11/16". 3/4" ply my ass. Dude at the store told me the C grade birch would be fine for a cabinet. It has so many voids it's ridiculous. It was also like $80 a sheet vs $150 for A grade. No planer, and I don't know that I trust my table saw to resaw 3/4" stuff down to 5/8, and some of the drawers will be deep enough (hanging files) that it wouldn't work anyway, but 9 drawers* $10-15 is a good bit. I think I need to call around to see if anyone has some S4S 1/2"-5/8" hardwood of some sort. This thing is going to end up costing at least a grand in materials and now I'm seeing why custom handmade furniture is so damn expensive. This would probably be $10k+ if I paid someone to make it. Even just cobbling it together from Diamond's low-end cabinets would be $3-4k.

@MarkKO Do you finish drawer boxes? From what I've been reading/seeing folk are mixed. Seems like shellac or linseed oil would be the way to go, but unfinished also seems fine.

[MarkKO]

Climbed yesterday, sent 2 v4-6s and the hardest one I've gotten from the comp, it's not tagged with a grade yet but it's minimum v4-6. The first one I got I would not have sent 2 months ago, tough crimps with tough body positions and I would not have been able to hold on. 2nd one I have no idea how it got the grade it did, it's probably v3 or soft v4, to me at least. Usually when I cruise them, they're pretty powerful and that suits me, but aside from a slightly tricky start there wasn't a lot going on. The comp one I'm very proud of, very techy slab boulder with a heinous gaston (outward side pull, away from your center of mass) crimp in the middle. Once I had sorted out the sequence I gave it a go and hit that hold with my index, middle, and ring fingers of left hand. Index popped off, then middle, and I held it with my ring. Fell on the next move and the spot where I'd popped a pulley tendon in that ring finger a few years back was aching pretty good. I needed to change shoes to get a bit more pressure through one hold, so I went over to my bag, did that, taped up that joint, and sent it next go. Anyway, I used to call myself a v5 climber because I'd sent a couple but I think I'm now solidly in the heart of it, and the hangboarding I've been doing seems to be paying dividends. Onwards and upwards.

My lifting log is officially a new Cap'n Crunch flavor - OOPS! All Climbing. I wouldn't mind getting back into some deadlifts and light bench but that stall of the garage has been turned into a workshop as I build a built-in cabinet for my office and it's a dusty disaster. Excuses really, there's still room.

I think I finally have my saws fairly true but this is my first time doing anything real like this since high school woodshop. It's been fun, but hard to work around some of the issues caused by slightly out-of-true tools. The 2 base boxes, kick box, and face are done. Drawers and door are next, and I don't have a dado stack or router or sled yet, and I'm planning on shaker style fronts, so the mortise/tenon bit is going to be fun. Very thankful I'm doing paint grade. Somewhat unthankful that the Blum undermount drawer slides that I'm planning on are an extra $10-15 for the ones that work with >5/8" material, and the ply I was going to use is 11/16". 3/4" ply my ass. Dude at the store told me the C grade birch would be fine for a cabinet. It has so many voids it's ridiculous. It was also like $80 a sheet vs $150 for A grade. No planer, and I don't know that I trust my table saw to resaw 3/4" stuff down to 5/8, and some of the drawers will be deep enough (hanging files) that it wouldn't work anyway, but 9 drawers* $10-15 is a good bit. I think I need to call around to see if anyone has some S4S 1/2"-5/8" hardwood of some sort. This thing is going to end up costing at least a grand in materials and now I'm seeing why custom handmade furniture is so damn expensive. This would probably be $10k+ if I paid someone to make it. Even just cobbling it together from Diamond's low-end cabinets would be $3-4k.

@MarkKO Do you finish drawer boxes? From what I've been reading/seeing folk are mixed. Seems like shellac or linseed oil would be the way to go, but unfinished also seems fine.

I would absolutely finish the boxes. If the Blum runners you're using are the ones I'm thinking of (Movento) you'll want to minimise any movement in the timber at all, and ply is notorious for moving every which way.

We use Osmo Polyx high solid oil on all our veneer and timber. It isn't cheap, but it's a great product and you can get good results while being quite sparing especially using a roller.

I would personally finish the drawer box components before putting them together, it'll make getting good coverage easier. The process we use is machine, pre fit as required, oil, then assemble. You just need to mask whatever surfaces you glue if you're using any.

Interestingly, finishing drawer boxes isn't something that comes up much as mostly we build ours out of whiteboard and just face them. We only use two drawer systems, Movento and Legrabox. Legrabox are significantly more expensive, I think coming in around 100 AUD per drawer not including the face as far as I know.

[cgeorg]

I would absolutely finish the boxes. If the Blum runners you're using are the ones I'm thinking of (Movento) you'll want to minimise any movement in the timber at all, and ply is notorious for moving every which way.

We use Osmo Polyx high solid oil on all our veneer and timber. It isn't cheap, but it's a great product and you can get good results while being quite sparing especially using a roller.

I would personally finish the drawer box components before putting them together, it'll make getting good coverage easier. The process we use is machine, pre fit as required, oil, then assemble. You just need to mask whatever surfaces you glue if you're using any.

Interestingly, finishing drawer boxes isn't something that comes up much as mostly we build ours out of whiteboard and just face them. We only use two drawer systems, Movento and Legrabox. Legrabox are significantly more expensive, I think coming in around 100 AUD per drawer not including the face as far as I know.

I was going to use the BLUM Tandem Plus BLUMOTION. Doing as much finishing pre-assembly as possible definitely seems the way to go, and due to limited clamps and 9 drawers I was just going to pockethole the front and back into the sides, since those will be hidden. I know it's a bit amateur but seems the best for my limited setup. I suppose I can still add a bead of glue, with the pocket screws providing the clamping force.

Ugh I guess for the fronts I'll probably still need to clamp, and I think only 2 of them are wide enough. Looks like the collection will grow.

Ugh, I can't get it to not try to preview the amazon link. maybe code tags?

Code: Select all

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BTGC7N9/