2024-05-07
Climbing
Campus strength was low, especially left side. There was some upper back soreness from deads and an unlogged (easy, thankfully) set of 5 pullups yesterday.
Top Rope
5.11a Flash
Pretty happy to be back to a flashing 5.11 level of fitness. Crimps and a few good pockets and some high feet.
5.12c 2 fall fail
I think this one was aspirational, and I got to where I thought I might, about a third of the way up, with one fall on the way there. Sometimes trying hard stuff just sucks, but this was great - nearly every move was at or near my limit, but I was able to just squeak by.
My climbing partner's wrist was feeling some kind of way, so she bailed here.
Bouldering
v5-7 Projecting
Tough compression-style boulder on bad holds. I made it about halfway in a few tries before giving up. I ran out of the ability to move my feet, but I have an idea (move my feet sooner, that's some real insight there) to try out next time.
v4-6 Failx2
Tough pinches with really high feet in the second half of this one. I would love to blame my left hand pinch strength for this one but I don't think that's the only problem. Tried a couple different betas through that section but it doesn't even seem close.
v4-6 Projecting, Failx2
Another one that starts out with tough compression and technical feet on really bad holds, then turns crimpy. I'm pretty sure I need to get a really high foot at the one place I'm falling - I climbed an easier one up to that point and was able to do it that way, just couldn't get it from the ground. Matching the finish hold is also tough, though I have a method in mind for that that should work. Not going to bother uploading video of my failed attempts, but I will try to get some when I send it.
3 Chili fall, send
A couple big dynamic moves and then an easy finish. I actually tried this one while barely warmed up at the beginning of the session, got the first dyno but didn't go hard enough on the second. With that info in mind, I sent it first try here.
3 Chili fail
Weird-ass start that I just could not figure out, I could barely get off the ground. Climbed into the first move after the start and sent it from there. I'm going to need to see someone send this, it seems like you maybe need to heel hook over your hand in the start but I have nfi how to actually achieve that.
3 Chili fail
Another one with some interesting dynamic coordination. Tried a few sections, but was gassed and it had been 2.5 hours and I needed to go home and eat quiche.
Climbing the day after a workout has been pretty good the last 2 times. Just started going back in my log to see when I started slumping after my really good climbing and it looks like I peaked around January, and then started going downhill as the lifting started picking up. Hmm...
CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
Moderator: Chebass88
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cgeorg
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cgeorg
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Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
2024-05-09
Biking
Did ~14miles in ~1.5h. Felt it the whole way but feeling fine today.
Last night of bowling league is tonight. We're up by 4 points in a 7 point system (2 for each of 3 games, 1 for series total, can earn a bonus point in a game by winning by 125+). There are a couple of teams in striking distance. If we win 2 games we should be a lock, barring anything crazy happening in the match between the other 2 top teams. The goal is to just take all 3.
Ah fuck it, the tl;dr is above but let's dive into the weeds on format. Our season was split into 3rds, with 3 weeks left over at the end. The winner of each third, plus the highest total points who didn't win a 3rd all go into a round robin tournament in those last 3 weeks. At the end, the teams with the top 2 point totals in that round robin take 1st and 2nd. The other 2 teams get thrown back into the mix to be ranked based on total points for the year. So, it's possible a team could win a third, suck the rest of the year, take 3rd in the round robin and end up low in the standings. The payout in this league is good for first and ok for 2nd. I think 3rd might make their money back. We won the first 3rd, and are currently tied for 2nd in total points in the league. In the round robin, we have 11 points, the other teams have 7, 6, and 5. The team we're playing tonight has 5. The most interesting scenario is that the other 2 teams split 4-3 and both end up at 10, the team we're bowling gets 5 and ends up at 10, and we get 2 and end up with 13. 3 way tie for second, I'm not sure what the tiebreaker is. If we win 2, we get to 15 and win unless the team with 7 sweeps and bonuses. Winning 1 game basically guarantees us 1st or 2nd.
Biking
Did ~14miles in ~1.5h. Felt it the whole way but feeling fine today.
Last night of bowling league is tonight. We're up by 4 points in a 7 point system (2 for each of 3 games, 1 for series total, can earn a bonus point in a game by winning by 125+). There are a couple of teams in striking distance. If we win 2 games we should be a lock, barring anything crazy happening in the match between the other 2 top teams. The goal is to just take all 3.
Ah fuck it, the tl;dr is above but let's dive into the weeds on format. Our season was split into 3rds, with 3 weeks left over at the end. The winner of each third, plus the highest total points who didn't win a 3rd all go into a round robin tournament in those last 3 weeks. At the end, the teams with the top 2 point totals in that round robin take 1st and 2nd. The other 2 teams get thrown back into the mix to be ranked based on total points for the year. So, it's possible a team could win a third, suck the rest of the year, take 3rd in the round robin and end up low in the standings. The payout in this league is good for first and ok for 2nd. I think 3rd might make their money back. We won the first 3rd, and are currently tied for 2nd in total points in the league. In the round robin, we have 11 points, the other teams have 7, 6, and 5. The team we're playing tonight has 5. The most interesting scenario is that the other 2 teams split 4-3 and both end up at 10, the team we're bowling gets 5 and ends up at 10, and we get 2 and end up with 13. 3 way tie for second, I'm not sure what the tiebreaker is. If we win 2, we get to 15 and win unless the team with 7 sweeps and bonuses. Winning 1 game basically guarantees us 1st or 2nd.
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cgeorg
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Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
Welp, worst case, we got swept, and the team with 7 swept, so we dropped to 5th. First place got $1820 a man, 5th took home $620.
Le sigh. We bowled well, they bowled a bit better, and pin carry was on their side the whole time. They had a guy shoot 296 game 1 and another guy shoot 299 game 2.
Still stinging a bit. We left 3 points on the table last week that'd we'd have had if we made a couple more single pin spares, and those would have put us in a tie for first.
Le sigh. We bowled well, they bowled a bit better, and pin carry was on their side the whole time. They had a guy shoot 296 game 1 and another guy shoot 299 game 2.
Still stinging a bit. We left 3 points on the table last week that'd we'd have had if we made a couple more single pin spares, and those would have put us in a tie for first.
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broseph
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Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
Heartbreaking. But also congrats. And it sounded like an exciting scramble for the top.
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cgeorg
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Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
Thanks. The sting is slowly fading, and we had a great time over the course of the season. I do love bowling with this group of guys.
2024-05-11
Climbing
Abbreviated warmup due to lateness due to sitting in traffic for a wreck. At first I was annoyed at myself for not checking google maps because there are 2 ways to get there and 1 is sometimes backed up, then switched to being present and hoping no one was hurt. From the look of the vehicles people were probably banged up but nothing major. Back to the warmup bit, I did feel like I had plenty of power in reserve for the campusing.
Top Rope
5.10a Flash
The holds on this were worse than expected in a lot of places, but I think they would have been a lot better if my fingers were less sausagey. My wife can't even keep my wedding ring on her thumb.
5.11a Flash
Felt like a 5.11a, some tough moves but well within my capabilities. A marked improvement over the last few months - I think I'm fully on my way back to/past the heights of January.
Lead
5.10a On-sight
Some holds were not as good as I'd like, and clipping with my left hand is still a chore. Never felt in danger of a fall though, just annoyed at some of the positions.
5.10d 2 falls, no send
A big burly one on the most overhanging part of the wall. I didn't think I'd get this one sent, but I did make it about 2/3 of the way. There was a good knee bar about half way so I was able to get a lot of my grip back there, I probably should have stayed longer than I did. The clipping positions on the head wall (the top part where it gets a little less overhung, probably 10 degrees rather than 30 or so) were all on not great holds and all left hand clips. And again, I think sausage fingers hurt me on my first fall - it should have been a really good undercling but I couldn't get my hand shoved in far enough. After I climbed back on, I got the penultimate clip and got to the last hold, but I knew I wouldn't be able to clip the chains, so I just called it there. I was about .5s away from falling on the last clip I did get, pretty proud of hanging on there. Didn't leave anything in the tank, and apparently looked like popeye when I came down due to the pump. I don't know that I'd get this one if I tried it again. Maybe if I just spend 5 minutes in the knee bar to fully recover.
I did tell me wife we could lift today, and we don't have anything else on the schedule so I should probably stick to it.
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cgeorg
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Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
2024-05-12
Lifting
A day late, full price.
CG Bench
118x[6,9,10,9,6]
No snaps, crackles, OR pops. Hard but easy iykwim.
Squat
195x3x5
Staying in the quads is hard. Also I looked at my video from the 405x1 way back when and the 375 before it moved so fast, probably faster than any of these.
Internal Shoulder Rotations
Blue x 12x2
+
External Shoulder Rotations
Grey x [10,12]
+
Fairly Upright Supine BB Row
125x12x2
+
6 ways
5x10x2
Realized as I was doing this that it's a real hell of a shoulder superset. Ran out of time to get the 3rd circuit in, mother's day stuff.
Lifting
A day late, full price.
CG Bench
118x[6,9,10,9,6]
No snaps, crackles, OR pops. Hard but easy iykwim.
Squat
195x3x5
Staying in the quads is hard. Also I looked at my video from the 405x1 way back when and the 375 before it moved so fast, probably faster than any of these.
Internal Shoulder Rotations
Blue x 12x2
+
External Shoulder Rotations
Grey x [10,12]
+
Fairly Upright Supine BB Row
125x12x2
+
6 ways
5x10x2
Realized as I was doing this that it's a real hell of a shoulder superset. Ran out of time to get the 3rd circuit in, mother's day stuff.
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cgeorg
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Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
2024-05-14
Lifting
CG Bench
135x5x5
Heavy/shaky upon liftoff but the weight was easily handled with no shoulder crackles, all reps @0ish. Felt something on the outside of my right biceps on the eccentric of the last rep, thought about just having my wife lift it off my chest but then figured I'd just reset my brace and tighten up my elbows and do the rep and stop at any sign of anything and there was no sign of anything. Skipped the last planned set though.
Deadlift
225x4x4
EZ and lazy, with my wife at 135 I didn't feel like making loading more complex. I guess adding a 10 on each side would have been easy. It's fine, call it DE.
BB Curls
55x15x3
I thought rep 13 of set 3 would be a partial. Then I thought rep 14 would be a partial. And 15. I don't think I really cheated them either. Kind of like trusting that a hold that doesn't feel good enough is actually good enough, I just tried them and they went. Makes me wonder how many more I had in me, but I didn't want to be fully dead for climbing tomorrow. There is like half a gym of new boulders to try.
BB Skull Crushers
55x[14,10,10]
I think the first set was a little more pressy than skull crushy. JM or French or something, with a pretty vertical bar path. Whatever, my triceps did stuff. Doing all the curls first gives you a nice biceps pillow to push off of.
Lifting
CG Bench
135x5x5
Heavy/shaky upon liftoff but the weight was easily handled with no shoulder crackles, all reps @0ish. Felt something on the outside of my right biceps on the eccentric of the last rep, thought about just having my wife lift it off my chest but then figured I'd just reset my brace and tighten up my elbows and do the rep and stop at any sign of anything and there was no sign of anything. Skipped the last planned set though.
Deadlift
225x4x4
EZ and lazy, with my wife at 135 I didn't feel like making loading more complex. I guess adding a 10 on each side would have been easy. It's fine, call it DE.
BB Curls
55x15x3
I thought rep 13 of set 3 would be a partial. Then I thought rep 14 would be a partial. And 15. I don't think I really cheated them either. Kind of like trusting that a hold that doesn't feel good enough is actually good enough, I just tried them and they went. Makes me wonder how many more I had in me, but I didn't want to be fully dead for climbing tomorrow. There is like half a gym of new boulders to try.
BB Skull Crushers
55x[14,10,10]
I think the first set was a little more pressy than skull crushy. JM or French or something, with a pretty vertical bar path. Whatever, my triceps did stuff. Doing all the curls first gives you a nice biceps pillow to push off of.
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DanCR
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Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
Good for you. I wrote about this in another log recently, but I had a long period of mostly ending sets at the point where I "felt" that it had been "hard" and I'd gotten the necessary stimulus. Obviously, that's ridiculous. How the hell would I know? More recently I've been going until I actually fail a rep, and I think that I'm seeing results. (I say that I "think" I am because short term hypertrophy gains always are tricky. Maybe I'm just eating way more carbs or some shit.)cgeorg wrote: ↑Tue May 14, 2024 3:13 pm BB Curls
55x15x3
I thought rep 13 of set 3 would be a partial. Then I thought rep 14 would be a partial. And 15. I don't think I really cheated them either. Kind of like trusting that a hold that doesn't feel good enough is actually good enough, I just tried them and they went. Makes me wonder how many more I had in me...
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cgeorg
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Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
2024-05-15
Climbing
None of my muscles seemed primarily affected but general strength seemed low - hangboard warmups and campus were both rough. Usually I finish my 10s 20mm hang with plenty in the tank or a pull up, this time I was near failure. Only did 1-3 on the campus.
Bouldering
V2-4 Flash, flash
A couple end of warmup climbs
v3-5 Sent 3rd go plus some false starts, probably actually 6th attempt in a comp.
Played with it a little, then tried the next climb a few times, then came back to this and sent.
v3-5 Fail, got a few moves in a couple of times.
Balancy slab one that I can't keep myself into the wall on.
v3-5 Sent 2nd go
Overhanging and powerful, with some weird footwork. Ended up using what is usually a foot hold for a hand and it made things way easier. If it wasn't the intended beta then using that foot hold there was a big oversight.
v4-6 Fail
Another overhanging and powerful one, gave it a few attempts and tried to work some lower sections but it felt out of my league today.
v3-5 Flash
Another overhanging powerful one. I have video but feel lazy. Lots of spots where you have one good hold and one bad hold, and have to let go of the good one to get to the next good one.
v4-6 Fail
Couldn't do the first couple of moves, blaming my big ass and lack of left thumb for not being able to keep from barn dooring.
Problem of the week Zone in 2 attempts, no top
Hard to describe this one, an interesting pull to stand up, then blindly moving left onto a terrible foot, then left with the hand to a zone volume that I couldn't tell if you were supposed to stand under and press up into, or try to actually use the edge of as a hold. It seemed like you needed to actually jump your right foot over to match your left, but I couldn't see a way to get any momentum going.
v5-7 Sent bajillionth go
This one started with a swinging jump into a corner with no hands, just balancing with your face smushed on the wall. Then, relatively easy (for a 5-7) the rest of the way. Also have video of this but a guy stood in front of the camera mirin' for the middle half of the climb.
Tried another v3-5 after it but my feet were killing me, my comfy shoes have worn through the toe so I was using a much more aggressive performance shoe for all of this.
I was really psyched for this session and then worried it wouldn't live up to the hype, but I'm pleased with how it went, and the 5-7 to finish is a cherry on top.
Climbing
None of my muscles seemed primarily affected but general strength seemed low - hangboard warmups and campus were both rough. Usually I finish my 10s 20mm hang with plenty in the tank or a pull up, this time I was near failure. Only did 1-3 on the campus.
Bouldering
V2-4 Flash, flash
A couple end of warmup climbs
v3-5 Sent 3rd go plus some false starts, probably actually 6th attempt in a comp.
Played with it a little, then tried the next climb a few times, then came back to this and sent.
v3-5 Fail, got a few moves in a couple of times.
Balancy slab one that I can't keep myself into the wall on.
v3-5 Sent 2nd go
Overhanging and powerful, with some weird footwork. Ended up using what is usually a foot hold for a hand and it made things way easier. If it wasn't the intended beta then using that foot hold there was a big oversight.
v4-6 Fail
Another overhanging and powerful one, gave it a few attempts and tried to work some lower sections but it felt out of my league today.
v3-5 Flash
Another overhanging powerful one. I have video but feel lazy. Lots of spots where you have one good hold and one bad hold, and have to let go of the good one to get to the next good one.
v4-6 Fail
Couldn't do the first couple of moves, blaming my big ass and lack of left thumb for not being able to keep from barn dooring.
Problem of the week Zone in 2 attempts, no top
Hard to describe this one, an interesting pull to stand up, then blindly moving left onto a terrible foot, then left with the hand to a zone volume that I couldn't tell if you were supposed to stand under and press up into, or try to actually use the edge of as a hold. It seemed like you needed to actually jump your right foot over to match your left, but I couldn't see a way to get any momentum going.
v5-7 Sent bajillionth go
This one started with a swinging jump into a corner with no hands, just balancing with your face smushed on the wall. Then, relatively easy (for a 5-7) the rest of the way. Also have video of this but a guy stood in front of the camera mirin' for the middle half of the climb.
Tried another v3-5 after it but my feet were killing me, my comfy shoes have worn through the toe so I was using a much more aggressive performance shoe for all of this.
I was really psyched for this session and then worried it wouldn't live up to the hype, but I'm pleased with how it went, and the 5-7 to finish is a cherry on top.
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cgeorg
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Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
Have a bunch of stuff but haven't made time to post. Saw Soen Tuesday night, saw In Flames Thursday night, turned 41 Friday. Tried to bump lifting from Thursday to Friday but then Friday got tight on time. Maybe tomorrow after brunch and before seeing Sleep Token. Also, Symphony X on Tuesday.
2024-05-18
Climbing
Top Rope
5.10b
Warmup, fine
5.11c Flash
It was sweaty in there and there were a few holds that weren't great. Some interesting side to side weight management on this climb, and an interesting section at the top with some mantle/press/side pull stuff. 4 stars.
Got it first go today and had plenty in the tank. I got my foot sequence worked out on the technical spot, and was way cleaner through a slightly earlier spot. The crimpy spot near the top felt like to problem. Real psyched at how comfortably this one went down.
Bouldering
Tried this one again but couldn't hold on to the compressiony bits. We can blame sweat but I think I was just not as strong on this one today.
2024-05-18
Climbing
Top Rope
5.10b
Warmup, fine
5.11c Flash
It was sweaty in there and there were a few holds that weren't great. Some interesting side to side weight management on this climb, and an interesting section at the top with some mantle/press/side pull stuff. 4 stars.
5.11d Sendcgeorg wrote: ↑Tue Apr 30, 2024 6:57 pm 2024-04-30
5.11d 2 falls, 2 falls
Toughie with a few really fun moves in the middle and a pretty technical spot that I fell on both times, then a crimpy spot near the top that's just quite hard that I also fell on both times. I think I'll keep working this one as well.
Got it first go today and had plenty in the tank. I got my foot sequence worked out on the technical spot, and was way cleaner through a slightly earlier spot. The crimpy spot near the top felt like to problem. Real psyched at how comfortably this one went down.
Bouldering
v4-6 Failcgeorg wrote: ↑Tue May 07, 2024 6:51 pm 2024-05-07
v4-6 Projecting, Failx2
Another one that starts out with tough compression and technical feet on really bad holds, then turns crimpy. I'm pretty sure I need to get a really high foot at the one place I'm falling - I climbed an easier one up to that point and was able to do it that way, just couldn't get it from the ground. Matching the finish hold is also tough, though I have a method in mind for that that should work. Not going to bother uploading video of my failed attempts, but I will try to get some when I send it.
Tried this one again but couldn't hold on to the compressiony bits. We can blame sweat but I think I was just not as strong on this one today.
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DanCR
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Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
Happy birthday!cgeorg wrote: ↑Sat May 18, 2024 10:11 am Have a bunch of stuff but haven't made time to post. Saw Soen Tuesday night, saw In Flames Thursday night, turned 41 Friday. Tried to bump lifting from Thursday to Friday but then Friday got tight on time. Maybe tomorrow after brunch and before seeing Sleep Token. Also, Symphony X on Tuesday.
How were Soen and In Flames? I either didn't realize or forgot that you were a metal guy. I forget everything lately.
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cgeorg
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Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
Soen was ok. I love their stuff in headphones but it wasn't quite as full/expansive/something live. Still glad I went, having a gummy might have helped. In Flames was killer as always, love Anders' banter with the crowd, and though they started with something I didn't recognize/couldn't quite get into, they moved on to stuff I love and didn't stop. 5 stars. Creeping Death opened for them, fine show but not my jam, and then Gatecreeper who was pretty solid. Both more on the deathy side of things.DanCR wrote: ↑Sat May 18, 2024 10:25 amHappy birthday!cgeorg wrote: ↑Sat May 18, 2024 10:11 am Have a bunch of stuff but haven't made time to post. Saw Soen Tuesday night, saw In Flames Thursday night, turned 41 Friday. Tried to bump lifting from Thursday to Friday but then Friday got tight on time. Maybe tomorrow after brunch and before seeing Sleep Token. Also, Symphony X on Tuesday.
How were Soen and In Flames? I either didn't realize or forgot that you were a metal guy. I forget everything lately.
I was also watching In Flames and noticing a shredded, younger, technically flawless guitarist on the far side of the stage, thinking about how that dude's definitely not original because he fits all the hallmarks of being the new guy. Then during the band intros Anders says "And over here, Chris Broderick". Duh, can't believe I didn't recognize him. Saw him with Megadeth a while back, and I'm pretty sure Act of Defiance opened at a show I went to as well.
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cgeorg
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Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
Sleep Token was solid. I liked the music better live than recorded (I think I need some time to get used to his voice), and the light show was one of the best I've seen. Heathen opened for Symphony X, they were pretty great. I don't think I've ever seen faster rhythms played in person - I was posted up in front of Kyle Edissi. Symphony X was also pretty great, Michael Romeo is out of this world, and tossed me a pick. I actually would have liked a song or 2 with slower/more melodic solos, the shred display was incredible but there was only one slower bluesy solo that was probably my fave. No idea how popular this particular song is in their lexicon, but I was really hoping for stuff like the solo here:
There was a slightly annoying, too-drunk guy next to me that kept chanting for Odyssey, but he left disappointed. He was also harassing Romeo for a pick for like half of the show, after being clearly indicated that he'd get him one just hold your fuckin horses. Big dude too, drinking miller lite. Get yourself together.
After Sleep Token, maybe thinking ahead to this one, I listened to Savatage's Edge of Thorns on the way home, and Dead Winter Dead, Edge of Thorns and Gutter Ballet were all played over the PA between sets. Nice.
Lots of busy has led to less lifting. Slated for this afternoon.
2024-05-21
Climbing
Bouldering
Mostly warmup stuff, but there was a really neat 2 chili boulder where you had to slide your foot down a no-textured volume to land on a foot hold underneath of it, then grab an ok hand hold to stabilize. It looked quite hard and I got it second go, fuck yeah. Also flashed some other 2 chili problem, and a v3-5 with a hard foot move. It was in a warmup area by the roped climbing, and I feel like the v3-5s over there are closer to v3 than v5.
Top-Rope
5.12b 5 or 6 falls
This one was a "let's see how far we can get." I pulled on very quickly after each fall, and actually got all the moves and made it to the top, which had me pretty psyched. I will probably see if I can put together more sections. Conditions weren't great, it was very humid and this had a lot of slopers and those 2 things don't go together. There were also 2 blocked crimps that had room for people with standard fingers to get in there pretty well, but my sausage tips could barely find purchase.
5.10d Flash
Tough and pumpy, with some big moves. I was able to tall-guy one at the top, not really sure what people 1" shorter than me are supposed to do.
5.10d Flash
Tough and pumpy, with some big moves. I don't think I had to tall-guy any of it, but it was more of a fight than I'd like a 5.10d to be.
I didn't feel too burnt from the 5.12b but maybe I was.
Hoping for 3 days of climbing this week.
There was a slightly annoying, too-drunk guy next to me that kept chanting for Odyssey, but he left disappointed. He was also harassing Romeo for a pick for like half of the show, after being clearly indicated that he'd get him one just hold your fuckin horses. Big dude too, drinking miller lite. Get yourself together.
After Sleep Token, maybe thinking ahead to this one, I listened to Savatage's Edge of Thorns on the way home, and Dead Winter Dead, Edge of Thorns and Gutter Ballet were all played over the PA between sets. Nice.
Lots of busy has led to less lifting. Slated for this afternoon.
2024-05-21
Climbing
Bouldering
Mostly warmup stuff, but there was a really neat 2 chili boulder where you had to slide your foot down a no-textured volume to land on a foot hold underneath of it, then grab an ok hand hold to stabilize. It looked quite hard and I got it second go, fuck yeah. Also flashed some other 2 chili problem, and a v3-5 with a hard foot move. It was in a warmup area by the roped climbing, and I feel like the v3-5s over there are closer to v3 than v5.
Top-Rope
5.12b 5 or 6 falls
This one was a "let's see how far we can get." I pulled on very quickly after each fall, and actually got all the moves and made it to the top, which had me pretty psyched. I will probably see if I can put together more sections. Conditions weren't great, it was very humid and this had a lot of slopers and those 2 things don't go together. There were also 2 blocked crimps that had room for people with standard fingers to get in there pretty well, but my sausage tips could barely find purchase.
5.10d Flash
Tough and pumpy, with some big moves. I was able to tall-guy one at the top, not really sure what people 1" shorter than me are supposed to do.
5.10d Flash
Tough and pumpy, with some big moves. I don't think I had to tall-guy any of it, but it was more of a fight than I'd like a 5.10d to be.
I didn't feel too burnt from the 5.12b but maybe I was.
Hoping for 3 days of climbing this week.
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cgeorg
- Registered User
- Posts: 2754
- Joined: Fri Sep 15, 2017 10:33 am
- Location: Pittsburgh, Pa
- Age: 41
Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
2024-05-22
"Lifting"
My shoulder has been low key chronic sore for a bit so I think I am just going to lay off the pressing. Did a few small things while also doing some garage projects.
Shoulder Rotations
Internal: Bluex[10,12]
External: Grayx12x2
Pistol Squats
BWx5x2
It's really satisfying to do these ATG without support. You get to the bottom and feel so scrunched like how could you get out of it. Then you just stand up.
"Lifting"
My shoulder has been low key chronic sore for a bit so I think I am just going to lay off the pressing. Did a few small things while also doing some garage projects.
Shoulder Rotations
Internal: Bluex[10,12]
External: Grayx12x2
Pistol Squats
BWx5x2
It's really satisfying to do these ATG without support. You get to the bottom and feel so scrunched like how could you get out of it. Then you just stand up.
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DanCR
- Registered User
- Posts: 3897
- Joined: Sat Dec 14, 2019 11:06 am
- Location: Louisiana / New York
- Age: 45
Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
They’re awesome. During my bodyweight training phase, these, followed by Hindu squats, were what I did for “legs.” That was 60 lbs or so ago.
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cgeorg
- Registered User
- Posts: 2754
- Joined: Fri Sep 15, 2017 10:33 am
- Location: Pittsburgh, Pa
- Age: 41
Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
Can you tell I'm more into climbing than lifting now?
2024-05-24
Climbing
Bouldering
Warmups felt pretty strong. Started on some slab stuff
Boulder of the week
Comp style thing that I couldn't get the first move of
v2-4 Fail
Tough little thing that I fell about 60% of the way through. I think I needed to bump a foot over a little earlier, but the tiny footholds were hurting my lil toesie wosies so I decided it was not worth my time.
v4-6 Sent 3rd go
Fun little guy, fell on the 3rd move where I cross my left hand under my right, then need to get the right hand out to the left. Pulled right back on and did the rest, which was pretty cool. Tried again and fell in the same spot. Figured out that I needed to get taller and farther around the corner before I moved my right hand, and got the send on video (first one). The other tricky part was, when I match hands on the hold below the big round one, then bump my right had out right, getting and keeping my right foot on that foothold. It looks ok in the video, but on the first attempt I was flailing around desperately and kept slipping off it.
v4-6 Sent 3rd go
Another fun little guy, some crimps to a big move to a hold that feels pretty good but isn't quite that good, as evidenced by my falling off of it twice. Jumped on to verify the moves on top, then set up the camera and sent the next attempt (second one). Getting shifted from the right to left near the end felt sketchier than it looks.
v3-5 Send 3rd go
A trend! It took 3 tries because I suck at route reading. Discovered a new hand hold after the first fall, and a new foot hold after the second. Kind of hard mantle up on to a big round sloping hold, then some tricksy balancy stuff to finish getting on top of it, then a semi-powerful finish.
v4-6, v3-5, v4-6 No sends
There were a batch of boulders next to each other that were all interesting. The first v4-6 starts with hanging underneath a triangle shaped volume, kicking a foot out so that your body is horizontal, then trying to fling your body up around the volume to a sideways press, standing up from there. A dude tried it and looked pretty close, I gave a nod then paused my podcasts and popped out the earbuds before trying it and basically just getting my body level with my hands before falling. Started chatting and trying it more, he was getting close and I was not getting anywhere. Jumped into talk of climbing outside and yadda yadda and I might go bouldering outdoors with some of his friends this weekend. No firm plans yet, keeping my expectations tempered, but yeah, goals.
The 3-5 was kind of a mirror image of the 2nd v4-6 above, but I just couldn't hold the jumping dynamic move. The other 4-6 was made for small people and really hard to get through the first couple of moves. I was able to put together maybe 5 moves after the first couple, but that still only gets you about 60% of the way, and I had like nothing left. Did a 2-4, said bye/hit me up if you want a climbing partner, tried a ridiculous v6-8 start that I saw on my way back to my stuff (will be trying more of this, it seems like it could actually go), and headed out.
2024-05-24
Climbing
Bouldering
Warmups felt pretty strong. Started on some slab stuff
Boulder of the week
Comp style thing that I couldn't get the first move of
v2-4 Fail
Tough little thing that I fell about 60% of the way through. I think I needed to bump a foot over a little earlier, but the tiny footholds were hurting my lil toesie wosies so I decided it was not worth my time.
v4-6 Sent 3rd go
Fun little guy, fell on the 3rd move where I cross my left hand under my right, then need to get the right hand out to the left. Pulled right back on and did the rest, which was pretty cool. Tried again and fell in the same spot. Figured out that I needed to get taller and farther around the corner before I moved my right hand, and got the send on video (first one). The other tricky part was, when I match hands on the hold below the big round one, then bump my right had out right, getting and keeping my right foot on that foothold. It looks ok in the video, but on the first attempt I was flailing around desperately and kept slipping off it.
v4-6 Sent 3rd go
Another fun little guy, some crimps to a big move to a hold that feels pretty good but isn't quite that good, as evidenced by my falling off of it twice. Jumped on to verify the moves on top, then set up the camera and sent the next attempt (second one). Getting shifted from the right to left near the end felt sketchier than it looks.
v3-5 Send 3rd go
A trend! It took 3 tries because I suck at route reading. Discovered a new hand hold after the first fall, and a new foot hold after the second. Kind of hard mantle up on to a big round sloping hold, then some tricksy balancy stuff to finish getting on top of it, then a semi-powerful finish.
v4-6, v3-5, v4-6 No sends
There were a batch of boulders next to each other that were all interesting. The first v4-6 starts with hanging underneath a triangle shaped volume, kicking a foot out so that your body is horizontal, then trying to fling your body up around the volume to a sideways press, standing up from there. A dude tried it and looked pretty close, I gave a nod then paused my podcasts and popped out the earbuds before trying it and basically just getting my body level with my hands before falling. Started chatting and trying it more, he was getting close and I was not getting anywhere. Jumped into talk of climbing outside and yadda yadda and I might go bouldering outdoors with some of his friends this weekend. No firm plans yet, keeping my expectations tempered, but yeah, goals.
The 3-5 was kind of a mirror image of the 2nd v4-6 above, but I just couldn't hold the jumping dynamic move. The other 4-6 was made for small people and really hard to get through the first couple of moves. I was able to put together maybe 5 moves after the first couple, but that still only gets you about 60% of the way, and I had like nothing left. Did a 2-4, said bye/hit me up if you want a climbing partner, tried a ridiculous v6-8 start that I saw on my way back to my stuff (will be trying more of this, it seems like it could actually go), and headed out.
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cgeorg
- Registered User
- Posts: 2754
- Joined: Fri Sep 15, 2017 10:33 am
- Location: Pittsburgh, Pa
- Age: 41
Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
2024-05-26
Biking
~26mi in ~2hr, felt pretty easy. My right shoulder is telling me that leaning on the handlebars is similar to pressing, we'll see how it plays out. I think I'm learning to live with a constant 2/10 pain there. The most annoying part is that I'd prefer to sleep on my right side but that bumps it up a couple levels the next day.
Biking
~26mi in ~2hr, felt pretty easy. My right shoulder is telling me that leaning on the handlebars is similar to pressing, we'll see how it plays out. I think I'm learning to live with a constant 2/10 pain there. The most annoying part is that I'd prefer to sleep on my right side but that bumps it up a couple levels the next day.
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cgeorg
- Registered User
- Posts: 2754
- Joined: Fri Sep 15, 2017 10:33 am
- Location: Pittsburgh, Pa
- Age: 41
Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
Should probably edit the title to put climbing first.
2024-05-27
Climbing
Have a weird upper back/shoulder thing, turning my head to the right produces a very unpleasant sensation in... maybe my traps? Didn't seem to affect anything. Warmups all felt good.
Bouldering
v3-5 Flash
Started out the harder stuff on the wave wall which starts at around 10* overhang, tilts back to about 45-55*, then back up to about 10* at the top. This one had a double dyno start (jumping) to a couple good holds, then I guess you could use a foot but I just campused up to the next hold. Big moves on fairly good holds. Cruised it.
v3-5 Flash
This one was a little trickier, some worse holds and a really big move to transition around the corner of the wall to a more vertical neighboring section. I tore the tape I put around one of my fingers from squeezing so hard.
v4-6 Fail
Tried this one before, it starts out underneath a wall, travels up the underside a bit then transitions out to the face of the wall heading up. I can't for the life of my figure out the transition. There are feet everywhere but I can't find a way to keep myself from swinging out and off when I come out from underneath.
v4-6 Fail but progress
Went over to one of the climbs I'd been working with the guy I met last sesh (did not hear from him about climbing this weekend), tried a few moves then another guy there made an attempt and I started talking to him about it then another guy also made an attempt so all 3 of us were working on it. I was struggling big time with the 2nd move, the other 2 were getting it and I learned some stuff from them and did manage to get it once. I also got a couple moves further through the middle than I had before, it's just a real beast. Would be fun to put together more of it. The guy I was talking to pointed out a couple other boulders I hadn't tried so I once I stopped making progress I headed over to check them out.
v6-8 Fail
Got confused and tried one that wasn't the one he'd mentioned, run and jump start that I got 3rd try and then got one move further but got shut down hard. Realized it was the wrong one and started checking out the yellow 5-7 next to it, then was resting when he came over and asked how I'd done. Said I had a brain fart and tried the wrong one, and he was like oh yeah it's this purple one.
v5-7 Send 2nd go
Ok, then I started looking at that one and it was as advertised - big moves on good holds in the cave. Had a heel slip on my first attempt and nailed it on the second. Really fun climb, if you only watch one climbing video that I post this is probably the one:
1 attempt on a few other hard things, then
v6-8 Fail but hell yeah
This one has a shitty non-textured foot hold to start. It is just in-cut enough to get a heel hook in, and the hand hold to start is awful. You slap out to another hand so it's like you're trying to open an elevator door, use that outward compression to basically hover while you turn your foot around from a heel to a toe, then switch your hands really quick so you're pulling/pressing with the opposite hands, then somehow manage to stand up enough to get your other foot onto the start hold that has some friction. It was the fight of my life. Got like 2 moves farther but then fell at what I think is probably the actual hardest move in the climb, but I was ecstatic to have gotten there, and completely spent, and my shoulder was like what the fuck dude.
Recovery
Ice cream, double scoop (which is like 4 scoops), cookie dough and salted caramel truffle. They were out of waffle cones and waffle bowls, so I got it in a bowl and had them slap a sugar cone on top, looked like a little party hat.
2024-05-27
Climbing
Have a weird upper back/shoulder thing, turning my head to the right produces a very unpleasant sensation in... maybe my traps? Didn't seem to affect anything. Warmups all felt good.
Bouldering
v3-5 Flash
Started out the harder stuff on the wave wall which starts at around 10* overhang, tilts back to about 45-55*, then back up to about 10* at the top. This one had a double dyno start (jumping) to a couple good holds, then I guess you could use a foot but I just campused up to the next hold. Big moves on fairly good holds. Cruised it.
v3-5 Flash
This one was a little trickier, some worse holds and a really big move to transition around the corner of the wall to a more vertical neighboring section. I tore the tape I put around one of my fingers from squeezing so hard.
v4-6 Fail
Tried this one before, it starts out underneath a wall, travels up the underside a bit then transitions out to the face of the wall heading up. I can't for the life of my figure out the transition. There are feet everywhere but I can't find a way to keep myself from swinging out and off when I come out from underneath.
v4-6 Fail but progress
Went over to one of the climbs I'd been working with the guy I met last sesh (did not hear from him about climbing this weekend), tried a few moves then another guy there made an attempt and I started talking to him about it then another guy also made an attempt so all 3 of us were working on it. I was struggling big time with the 2nd move, the other 2 were getting it and I learned some stuff from them and did manage to get it once. I also got a couple moves further through the middle than I had before, it's just a real beast. Would be fun to put together more of it. The guy I was talking to pointed out a couple other boulders I hadn't tried so I once I stopped making progress I headed over to check them out.
v6-8 Fail
Got confused and tried one that wasn't the one he'd mentioned, run and jump start that I got 3rd try and then got one move further but got shut down hard. Realized it was the wrong one and started checking out the yellow 5-7 next to it, then was resting when he came over and asked how I'd done. Said I had a brain fart and tried the wrong one, and he was like oh yeah it's this purple one.
v5-7 Send 2nd go
Ok, then I started looking at that one and it was as advertised - big moves on good holds in the cave. Had a heel slip on my first attempt and nailed it on the second. Really fun climb, if you only watch one climbing video that I post this is probably the one:
1 attempt on a few other hard things, then
v6-8 Fail but hell yeah
This one has a shitty non-textured foot hold to start. It is just in-cut enough to get a heel hook in, and the hand hold to start is awful. You slap out to another hand so it's like you're trying to open an elevator door, use that outward compression to basically hover while you turn your foot around from a heel to a toe, then switch your hands really quick so you're pulling/pressing with the opposite hands, then somehow manage to stand up enough to get your other foot onto the start hold that has some friction. It was the fight of my life. Got like 2 moves farther but then fell at what I think is probably the actual hardest move in the climb, but I was ecstatic to have gotten there, and completely spent, and my shoulder was like what the fuck dude.
Recovery
Ice cream, double scoop (which is like 4 scoops), cookie dough and salted caramel truffle. They were out of waffle cones and waffle bowls, so I got it in a bowl and had them slap a sugar cone on top, looked like a little party hat.