The sartorial thread

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stuffedsuperdud
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Re: The sartorial thread

#1021

Post by stuffedsuperdud » Mon Dec 16, 2019 10:34 pm

@Allentown
TheTieBar is probably your best option for a quick cheap answer. I really like their wool ties, which pair well with textured casual things like jeans, cords, cardigans, chambray shirts, sweater vests, etc. Like this one (https://www.thetiebar.com/product/TIE-4949-0185)

Their wool-knit ties (https://www.thetiebar.com/product/36856sk) are interesting in that they have a pointy bottom, like a regular tie, instead of a flat-across bottom, which is typically what you get with knit ties. Also, knit ties are a fun way to bring some low risk texture and faux-pattern to the game, without anything that might clash with the rest of you.

Finally, if you're feeling a bit spendy, they have a few "Italian wool" ties, using fabric made by Vitale Barberis Canonico. The patterns are subtle but certainly more visually interesting than a solid, and the texture is very rich and beefy. You'll have to go with a casual 4-in-hand knot though, as I've found it too thick and cumbersome for a half Windsor, but that's perfectly fine for a festive holiday party thinger. This one's pretty Christmassy, but maybe you can still wear it during the regular year with a cardigan or something: https://www.thetiebar.com/product/TIE-4850-0004

I wouldn't spend extra on a pair of navy pants just for this; navy is hard to pair and tends to look like half a suit. I also wouldn't suggest just wearing the suit, since if you don't like it, you might just end up feeling awkward and self-conscious the whole time.

And hey, it's 2019. As long as you're trying, you'll probably be ahead of a lot of guys in the room.

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Re: The sartorial thread

#1022

Post by Allentown » Tue Dec 17, 2019 6:26 am

Went with a wool pointed tip hunter green and a solid wool/silk knit hunter green pocket square.
Tried a "demo" run with the black pebble boots, charcoal Bean chinos, cream shirt, a black/grey silk tie, and the grey jacket. Didn't like the smooth silk with the jacket, as I expected. Wife said it looked good and would have been fine for the party but do I have any darker grey pants? Which means I get to buy new pants, right?

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Boot stuff

#1023

Post by Allentown » Wed Dec 18, 2019 8:30 am

I really like my Rancourt Greenwood boots.
Rancourt has a new line of boots using some overstocked leather that is selling for, IMO, a darn good price. They only make what they have, so sizes are limited, but man if I'm not tempted by some suede Blake-welted boots with the Vibram 4014 Cristy outsole, in my size, for $205...

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Re: Boot stuff

#1024

Post by simonrest » Wed Dec 18, 2019 6:07 pm

Allentown wrote: Wed Dec 18, 2019 8:30 am I really like my Rancourt Greenwood boots.
Rancourt has a new line of boots using some overstocked leather that is selling for, IMO, a darn good price. They only make what they have, so sizes are limited, but man if I'm not tempted by some suede Blake-welted boots with the Vibram 4014 Cristy outsole, in my size, for $205...
I really think you should. Not only because it's a good deal but it may assuage my slight guilt at pushing go on a pair of MTO boots today

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Re: Boot stuff

#1025

Post by Allentown » Thu Dec 19, 2019 6:35 am

simonrest wrote: Wed Dec 18, 2019 6:07 pm I really think you should. Not only because it's a good deal but it may assuage my slight guilt at pushing go on a pair of MTO boots today
PLUS the garbo canvas chukkas I am wearing today are falling apart. The heel cup is, apparently, made out of cardboard, and is falling out.

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Re: The sartorial thread

#1026

Post by simonrest » Thu Dec 19, 2019 11:01 am

Well that's definitely justification right there. It's not "new boots" it's "replacement boots"

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Re: The sartorial thread

#1027

Post by Allentown » Tue Jan 07, 2020 7:18 am

stuffedsuperdud wrote: Mon Dec 16, 2019 10:34 pm And hey, it's 2019. As long as you're trying, you'll probably be ahead of a lot of guys in the room.
Post-party update:
Got a haircut and beard trim. Wife talked me into wearing the charcoal Prana Hendrixton "athleisure" pants, because "they are the best looking pants you have, they look the fanciest" with the black Rancourt boots, black GL work belt, white poplin CT shirt, the grey Bonobos unconstructed jacket, hunter green wool tie. Sadly, the pocket square was a pretty different color in person than online and looked weird next to the tie.

3-4 of her coworkers commented on my outfit when I came in Wait, I dropped my wife off at the door and she went in before me...
simonrest wrote: Thu Dec 19, 2019 11:01 am Well that's definitely justification right there. It's not "new boots" it's "replacement boots"
Emailed them, and the last they are using for that line runs 1/2 size small, so I would need to order up, which they didn't have. I'm going to keep an eye on that page, though, a comfy easy-on chukka would be great to have to throw on for quick outside stuff at home.

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Re: The sartorial thread

#1028

Post by Savs » Sat Jan 18, 2020 4:58 am

For Allentown:
article wrote:In effect, the Patagonia vest, once the preferred outer garment of granola-crunching, Subaru-driving, NPR-listening types, has become a symbol of something entirely different: the Montauk-haunting, flat white-sipping, UBS tote-wielding post-fraternity bro.
https://www.esquire.com/style/mens-fash ... ess-style/

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Re: The sartorial thread

#1029

Post by Allentown » Mon Jan 20, 2020 2:40 am


stuffedsuperdud
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Re: The sartorial thread

#1030

Post by stuffedsuperdud » Mon Jan 27, 2020 10:04 pm

I'm back! So I was traveling for work basically continuously for a month. Took me to some warm climates (Puerto Rico, Texas, California, the Carolinas) but it was ultimately still kind of a drag: there were a bunch of shitty motels mixed in there, plus when I got back I found that my car had been towed while I was away and I had to pay a comical impound release fee.

I had to pack light, so I brought with me:
1 blue blazer
4 CT shirts: white, blue, pink, and blue grid. Non-iron is a godsend
1 long sleeve polo, navy
2 pants, one gray, one tan, both in wrinkle-resistant wool
1 casual tie, a burgundy textured wool affair from The Tie Bar
Tan AE Granthams
White casual sneakers
Misc: wool OTC socks in gray and tan to match pants, moisture-wicking quick dry Uniqlo undies, gym shirt + pants
Had to wash my socks and undies in the hotel sink ugh. Didn't wash the gym clothes so they were pretty ripe at the end. What a disgusting piece of shit I am.

Anyway, this saw me through a bunch of meetings, training sessions, meals, binge drinking sessions, one casual wedding, and lots of evenings sitting alone at bars. All low-maintenance and nothing I couldn't touch up even in hotels that did not have good irons, i.e. all of them. Was kind of inspired by that episode of Mad Men where Don goes to Hawaii for "work" and seamlessly transitions from luau to bar to hung over beachside wedding, though he managed to do it with less. Because he's a TV character and I need to bring backups in case of catastrophic spills.


On the sartorial front, @Allentown, belated congrats on properly representing. Hope you get use out of the tie outside of the holidays. I'm pretty partial to hunter green myself, as it seems to go quite easily with most blues and grays.

Speaking of which, I've been wanting a pale greenish striped dress shirt for a long time, but they're surprisingly hard to find. In the end, I noticed that Spier & Mackay had the fabric available in their custom shirt program, and pulled the trigger. You have the option of using a stock template, measuring your body, or uploading the dimensions of an existing shirt. I put in the #s for one of my CT shirts and the result was pretty good! The fit is very wearable, though a touch too snug in the chest and I know what adjustments I'll make for the next one. Note that they don't offer free remakes in general, a la other online MTM setups, probably because the margins on a shirt are smaller than on a suit, but if the first shirt is absolutely unwearable, you can order another one at a big discount. Workmanship was fine: stitching is clean and fabric pattern-matching at the seams was nice. Easily my most expensive shirt, since all of mine are $30 CT ones, but definitely a fair price for a well-made custom item.

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Re: The sartorial thread

#1031

Post by Idlehands » Sun Mar 15, 2020 3:59 pm

beckett and simonon shoes? worth the money? Looks like some fun ones!

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Re: The sartorial thread

#1032

Post by simonrest » Sun Mar 15, 2020 5:10 pm

Idlehands wrote: Sun Mar 15, 2020 3:59 pm beckett and simonon shoes? worth the money? Looks like some fun ones!
I've read only good things about the brand. What in particular are you looking at?

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Re: The sartorial thread

#1033

Post by Idlehands » Mon Mar 16, 2020 7:34 am

simonrest wrote: Sun Mar 15, 2020 5:10 pm
Idlehands wrote: Sun Mar 15, 2020 3:59 pm beckett and simonon shoes? worth the money? Looks like some fun ones!
I've read only good things about the brand. What in particular are you looking at?
Kidding me? I"m stuck at home and have gaps in the quiver
--wholecuts
--new boots
--double monks
--whatever

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Re: The sartorial thread

#1034

Post by simonrest » Mon Mar 16, 2020 1:33 pm

Idlehands wrote: Mon Mar 16, 2020 7:34 am
simonrest wrote: Sun Mar 15, 2020 5:10 pm
Idlehands wrote: Sun Mar 15, 2020 3:59 pm beckett and simonon shoes? worth the money? Looks like some fun ones!
I've read only good things about the brand. What in particular are you looking at?
Kidding me? I"m stuck at home and have gaps in the quiver
--wholecuts
--new boots
--double monks
--whatever
ha! the most concerning thing about self quarantine for me is that I know I'm going to drop a heap of cash online shopping.

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Re: The sartorial thread

#1035

Post by stuffedsuperdud » Thu Mar 26, 2020 4:17 pm

Hey @Idlehands did you see the announcement from Cobbler Union? They have pretty much everything you need, and to compensate for having to go online-only for now, they're doing a 20% off. That puts their stuff in low $300s territory, which for the quality is a steal.

Start here:
https://www.cobbler-union.com/collections/the-oxfords
The Miguel wholecut looks quite sleek and elegant!

These boots are amazing:
https://www.cobbler-union.com/collectio ... brown-ritz
Goes with pretty much all pants, from jeans to a suit. I took a look at the color in person when I accidentally visited their store and the mottling on the museum calf is beautiful. A buddy of mine ended up springing for a pair and now I hate him a little every time I see him wearing it. Treat yo self!

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Re: The sartorial thread

#1036

Post by DoctorWho » Thu Mar 26, 2020 4:51 pm

A couple of months ago, I decided to break out of my cheapness and get a good pair of shoes. I couldn't get a pair of Allen Edmonds to fit my feet. Nothing in stock, but the guy suggested ordering 7.5EEE, which the store didn't stock and wouldn't take back if they didn't fit.

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Re: The sartorial thread

#1037

Post by stuffedsuperdud » Thu Mar 26, 2020 5:10 pm

DoctorWho wrote: Thu Mar 26, 2020 4:51 pm A couple of months ago, I decided to break out of my cheapness and get a good pair of shoes. I couldn't get a pair of Allen Edmonds to fit my feet. Nothing in stock, but the guy suggested ordering 7.5EEE, which the store didn't stock and wouldn't take back if they didn't fit.
Which model(s) did you try? Where was the point of discomfort?

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Re: The sartorial thread

#1038

Post by simonrest » Thu Mar 26, 2020 5:35 pm

@stuffedsuperdud how are you going with dressing for lockdown? Are you in sweats all day or are you putting on nice clothes to sit around in?

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Re: The sartorial thread

#1039

Post by Idlehands » Fri Mar 27, 2020 5:57 am

stuffedsuperdud wrote: Thu Mar 26, 2020 4:17 pm Hey @Idlehands did you see the announcement from Cobbler Union? They have pretty much everything you need, and to compensate for having to go online-only for now, they're doing a 20% off. That puts their stuff in low $300s territory, which for the quality is a steal.

Start here:
https://www.cobbler-union.com/collections/the-oxfords
The Miguel wholecut looks quite sleek and elegant!

These boots are amazing:
https://www.cobbler-union.com/collectio ... brown-ritz
Goes with pretty much all pants, from jeans to a suit. I took a look at the color in person when I accidentally visited their store and the mottling on the museum calf is beautiful. A buddy of mine ended up springing for a pair and now I hate him a little every time I see him wearing it. Treat yo self!


Those boots are NICE. Not low 300s. I take it these over the Simons? Man my shoe desire is growing. Damn hermit life!

How are you doing with the stay at home?

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Re: The sartorial thread

#1040

Post by DoctorWho » Fri Mar 27, 2020 7:29 am

stuffedsuperdud wrote: Thu Mar 26, 2020 5:10 pm
DoctorWho wrote: Thu Mar 26, 2020 4:51 pm A couple of months ago, I decided to break out of my cheapness and get a good pair of shoes. I couldn't get a pair of Allen Edmonds to fit my feet. Nothing in stock, but the guy suggested ordering 7.5EEE, which the store didn't stock and wouldn't take back if they didn't fit.
Which model(s) did you try? Where was the point of discomfort?
I tried on a few models. I forget the name that has the laced-up sides almost independent from the most of the upper, so that pulling the laces tight tightens the center part of the shoe, but that one fit the best. The fit was OK, but when I walked the heel was loose on every model of every size I tried. But for the price, I would buy them and tinker with inserts, but I didn't want to risk it at AE prices.

Are there expert shoe fitters or scanning technology for outlier feet?

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