The sartorial thread

[Allentown]

Starting to look around for a smartwatch that looks mostly like an actual watch, and not this brown square I have now. Or at least something that doesn't look totally out of place with a polo, or even an occasional classic button down.

Just arrived: Rancourt Acadia chukka in natural chromexcel. Absolutely fantastic. Moc toe with crepe wedge style sole. 10/10.

[platypus]

I wear a size 32 or 34 depending on the brand, and my thighs measure 27”. I used to wear urban star jeans from costco, but I have to walk 3+ miles a day now and the costco jeans wear through really quickly. I can squeeze into a pair of Levi’s 541s, but they hug my thighs pretty hard.

I can always find baggy 1980s dress pants at the thrift shop, and sweatpants usually fit. But casual clothing proves a near impossibility. During a recent trip to walmart, I failed to find a pair of jeans, cargoes, or chinos that I could fit. Any fellow squatters have pants they’d recommend for a guy my size?

[Skander]

I recommend doing some in person shopping for the 541s. They don't have great quality control and different colors can fit differently. My blue ones are like jeggings, but the green ones I have (had to hem them, they were too long) are the single most comfy outside pants I own. But I had try on several different pairs, even in the same size.

[platypus]

I recommend doing some in person shopping for the 541s. They don't have great quality control and different colors can fit differently. My blue ones are like jeggings, but the green ones I have (had to hem them, they were too long) are the single most comfy outside pants I own. But I had try on several different pairs, even in the same size.

I'll do that, thanks for the tip!

[Philbert]

I recommend doing some in person shopping for the 541s. They don't have great quality control and different colors can fit differently. My blue ones are like jeggings, but the green ones I have (had to hem them, they were too long) are the single most comfy outside pants I own. But I had try on several different pairs, even in the same size.

I'll do that, thanks for the tip!

Another tip, measure the thigh opening on a pair of pants that fits, straight across from inseam to sideseam. Then, with a measuring tape at the store you can quickly sort a pile of pants into "maybe" and "haha absolutely not".

[Allentown]

I recommend doing some in person shopping for the 541s. They don't have great quality control and different colors can fit differently. My blue ones are like jeggings, but the green ones I have (had to hem them, they were too long) are the single most comfy outside pants I own. But I had try on several different pairs, even in the same size.

I'll do that, thanks for the tip!

Another tip, measure the thigh opening on a pair of pants that fits, straight across from inseam to sideseam. Then, with a measuring tape at the store you can quickly sort a pile of pants into "maybe" and "haha absolutely not".

Just do your cloths shopping at Tractor Supply, then you don't have to bring your own tape measure.

[BostonRugger]

I was slow on the draw and it looks like Red Wing upped prices ~15% across the board. Thanks, Trumpbiden.

[Hanley]

I was slow on the draw and it looks like Red Wing upped prices ~15% across the board. Thanks, Trumpbiden.

White's MPs currently 20% off.

[BostonRugger]

Me: skinflints about $350 boots.

@Hanley : You can get these way nicer 600 boots for 500!


Never change, bro

[Allentown]

I was slow on the draw and it looks like Red Wing upped prices ~15% across the board. Thanks, Trumpbiden.

After 2 years of wear, my copper Rough and Tough Iron Rangers are my most worn but least liked boot. Rancourt Acadia chukka is my favorite so far, but I just got them and icy/slushy/salty stuff outside has mostly prevented wearing them. Then my Rancourt Greenwood, but the black pebble grain makes it stand out a little too much with Jean's and tshirt, and they take longer to put on than the others. Allen Edmonds Long Branch are very comfortable, but the tread is already worn out and I would probably wear them more if I replaced the laces, they are such a pain to try and tie tight enough to not just come untied.

The Iron Rangers go great with casual cloths, are easier to tie up (since 90% of my "shoes needed" time involve a baby, that 30s to put on a shoe is too inconvenient), and so far only need a wipe with a wet towel. They are significantly less comfortable than the other three, though.

TBH I just wear my slip-ons 80% of the time I need to go outside the house.

Whites are next up on my shoe shopping list.

[augeleven]

I bought a pair of Eastland Jayces in 2017 and have worn them 4-5 times a week most weeks September through May. They are aren’t Goodyear welted, but when the sole of one came separated, my cobbler patched it up for $40, including new laces and a shine. They are far and away the most comfortable and long lasting shoes I’ve ever owned, and I paid less than a hundo for them.

[stuffedsuperdud]

denimheads might know something I don't. (There might be something to the raw selvedge extra heavy denim, but I'm not an expert.)

20 oz. Naked & Famous Elephant 9 "weird guy" fit.

That shit'll last forever. And they're usually discounted.

I moved to CA last year and am in one of your standard ops tech bro offices. Finally caved and decided to get a pair of jeans to better blend in with this overly casual crew. I could have just gotten a pair of Levis 541s to replace my old ones from 2015/2016, but saw this post and decided that @Hanley tends to be right about most things and that I should just do what he says. I now own this pair of jeans and holy crap they're stiff, but that's kind of fun and the internet says that it's normal so I'm not too worried about that.

There's a lot of voodoo about the indigo dye and what I should and shouldn't do though. Can someone (Hanley?) summarize a few things? I'm getting the idea that these shouldn't be washed at all until like 200 wears, but can I spot clean them? If the dye is so delicate, will it come off onto a white shirt or couch? Will they stink? What happens if they do get wet by accident?

Also, everyone rolls up the bottoms instead of hemming them. Is there a practical reason for this, or is just so that other denim-heads can see the selvedge and the underside of the fabric? If it's just aesthetic, I'm not sure that's my jam, but I don't want to cut off a cuff that's there for a mechanical reason or whatever.

Never thought I'd see the day where I can competently clean and press (ha!) a pair of wool flannel dress without issue but am scratching my head about jeans, but hey here we are. Thanks.

[mgil]

Some denim has a dye that’s not “set” as well, in that it hasn’t gone through the typical lengthy washing after the jeans are constructed, iirc. Yes, the dye can rub off, usually with lots of friction or sweat/water.

Most people roll the cuff because hemming denim usually looks like shit.

While not the best fitting, Duluth Trading jeans with the extra stretch material are hands down the best stretch denim I’ve run across. Feel and look like denim, but have a massive amount of stretch. Like yoga pants.

[Brackish]

I'm weirdly shaped (Too little for a large and barely fit into a medium due to shoulder width.), and now that I've been lifting for a few years, I'm even more weirdly shaped. I've been wearing slim fit khakis to work for a while now, and they were great. Except now my quads have gotten big enough (Woohoo!) that they're starting to look a little odd. They're tight enough that you can see pocket outlines and underwear. However, I can't stand the stove pipe leg look of regular fit khakis. Does anyone happen to know of any brands that make them less slim but still "shaped"? Thanks!

[Hanley]

@stuffedsuperdud , I don't fuss with denim. I'll just wash it on cold and hang to dry. That's it. I'm not looking for hipster fade patterns and whiskering. I wash jeans...rarely, though. I dunno. Maybe every 100 wears

I don't like cuffing denim. Makes me look like an oddly proportioned dwarf. I get mine hemmed. Use Railcar Fine Goods. Or Standard & Strange (in Oakland).

^ if you're in the SF area, you've got to go to Standard & Strange. They're fucking amazing. I buy one nice thing from them every 2 years.

[cgeorgiev]

The GOAT asking about denim

The whole "don't wash your jeans for a year" or whatever is 100% a meme. You don't really get interesting fades or patterns in your jeans, rather, your jeans will smell, and the crotch will likely blowout from the dirt and oils accumulating + friction. Ask me how I know. For washing: wash inside out, delicate cycle, mild detergent and just line dry. The indigo absolutely will bleed if they're new; wash them separate. Simple as.

A possible reason you're seeing a lot of cuffing is that I believe the industry standard is a 34" inseam. I cuff my jeans because I have a 30" inseam, and I like the whole heritage look: pairs nice with boots. You probably already know this, but if you do get your fancy selvage jeans hemmed, go with someone that offers a chain stitch hemming. Standard and Strange and https://railcarfinegoods.com/ are both local CA places I've used.

The other GOAT talking about Standard & Strange

Love that store. What was the last thing you received from them?

[TimK]

I'm not … hipster … you've got to go to Standard & Strange. They're fucking amazing.

Cool story, bro



https://standardandstrange.com/collecti ... ilt-jacket

[Hanley]

I'm not … hipster … you've got to go to Standard & Strange. They're fucking amazing.

Cool story, bro

Fuck. Fine, I'm a hipster.

I hate myself.

[Hanley]

What was the last thing you received from them?

Hmm. I think a Real McCoy's loopwheel hoodie.

Stupidly comfortable and @TimK thinks I look cute in it.

[BostonRugger]

I finally had some time to stop by the Red Wing store to try on a couple boots. They changed the footbeds to some foam rubber insert nonsense. Not the same as 5+yrs ago.