The sartorial thread

[augeleven]

Regarding webcam meetings - I was informed that “sweatpants are the new business casual” by the president of a board that I sit on. We generally meet in a super fancy room in the BMI office in the new WTC. I’m considering wearing a shirt/jacket/tie, but no pants.

[Allentown]

I put on chinos, CT white/blue weave shirt, and my jacket for a stroll around the block.

Then put my sweatpants back on before going back into the basement "office."

[stuffedsuperdud]

I tried on a few models. I forget the name that has the laced-up sides almost independent from the most of the upper, so that pulling the laces tight tightens the center part of the shoe, but that one fit the best. The fit was OK, but when I walked the heel was loose on every model of every size I tried. But for the price, I would buy them and tinker with inserts, but I didn't want to risk it at AE prices.

Are there expert shoe fitters or scanning technology for outlier feet?

Without knowing exact what the AE guy tried, I can only guess from the heel slippage that he did not have a EEE width for you so he put you in an E and then bumped up the length half a size to compensate (when shoes increase in length they also increase in width to maintain proportion even if the width letter is the same, e.g. a 7.5EEE is about the same width as maybe an 8E and 8.5D).

It makes sense that the ones with the independent laces (AKA a derby) would be easier to fit, as you have more leeway to really cinch things down, whereas with the closed-lacing shoes (oxfords) you're much more restricted by the overall shape of the shoe. That said, Paul Grangaard when he was CEO did mention that a lot of their lasts (the molds that they shape their shoes around) were developed decades ago, and that might might be time for a redesign as the shape of average American male feet have changed. I think that's what they were trying to do with that new Bond Street model, which is built on a last that is supposedly wider around the ball without getting too big near the heel.


@simonrest I'm still trying. My job is client-facing, so even though a lot has transitioned to email only, I'm still doing a fair share of Skype calls, so I'm doing the standard biz caz thing, with a CT dress shirt or Spier & Mackay OCBD, something layered on top (sweater vest, cardigan, or sportcoat), and wool trousers. My roomies and I usually wear house slippers to avoid tracking crud into our already uncomfortable shared space, but I'll jump into a pair of loafers to go down the street for a cup of coffee. It's still cold out most days, so I'll throw on a sportcoat too, or the jacket that matches the pants I have on to make a suit. Psychological armor for stressful times, you know.

@Idlehands Oh yea I see now with the boots, the discount drops you into the high 300s. Expensive for sure, but in terms of bang for your buck, it's a steal. Their monks and wholecuts are beautiful too, and those are indeed in the low $300s after the deal.

[DoctorWho]

I tried on a few models. I forget the name that has the laced-up sides almost independent from the most of the upper, so that pulling the laces tight tightens the center part of the shoe, but that one fit the best. The fit was OK, but when I walked the heel was loose on every model of every size I tried. But for the price, I would buy them and tinker with inserts, but I didn't want to risk it at AE prices.

Are there expert shoe fitters or scanning technology for outlier feet?

Without knowing exact what the AE guy tried, I can only guess from the heel slippage that he did not have a EEE width for you so he put you in an E and then bumped up the length half a size to compensate (when shoes increase in length they also increase in width to maintain proportion even if the width letter is the same, e.g. a 7.5EEE is about the same width as maybe an 8E and 8.5D).

It makes sense that the ones with the independent laces (AKA a derby) would be easier to fit, as you have more leeway to really cinch things down, whereas with the closed-lacing shoes (oxfords) you're much more restricted by the overall shape of the shoe. That said, Paul Grangaard when he was CEO did mention that a lot of their lasts (the molds that they shape their shoes around) were developed decades ago, and that might might be time for a redesign as the shape of average American male feet have changed. I think that's what they were trying to do with that new Bond Street model, which is built on a last that is supposedly wider around the ball without getting too big near the heel.


@simonrest I'm still trying. My job is client-facing, so even though a lot has transitioned to email only, I'm still doing a fair share of Skype calls, so I'm doing the standard biz caz thing, with a CT dress shirt or Spier & Mackay OCBD, something layered on top (sweater vest, cardigan, or sportcoat), and wool trousers. My roomies and I usually wear house slippers to avoid tracking crud into our already uncomfortable shared space, but I'll jump into a pair of loafers to go down the street for a cup of coffee. It's still cold out most days, so I'll throw on a sportcoat too, or the jacket that matches the pants I have on to make a suit. Psychological armor for stressful times, you know.

@Idlehands Oh yea I see now with the boots, the discount drops you into the high 300s. Expensive for sure, but in terms of bang for your buck, it's a steal. Their monks and wholecuts are beautiful too, and those are indeed in the low $300s after the deal.

Thanks for the insight. It all sounds right to me.

[Idlehands]

ooo
beckett siminon 299$ two shoes memorial day weekend.
Fuck.
light my money on fire please

[brkriete]

It makes sense that the ones with the independent laces (AKA a derby) would be easier to fit, as you have more leeway to really cinch things down, whereas with the closed-lacing shoes (oxfords) you're much more restricted by the overall shape of the shoe. That said, Paul Grangaard when he was CEO did mention that a lot of their lasts (the molds that they shape their shoes around) were developed decades ago, and that might might be time for a redesign as the shape of average American male feet have changed. I think that's what they were trying to do with that new Bond Street model, which is built on a last that is supposedly wider around the ball without getting too big near the heel.

That's interesting.

I would guess we are 1) bigger and heavier than we used to be and 2) walking less. Not sure how the first would change foot shape ("fatter?" maybe higher volume?) and the second I would think would mean that the ball has gotten narrower relative to the heel (which seems to be the opposite of what you're describing).[/quote]

Are there expert shoe fitters or scanning technology for outlier feet?

Most of the west coast boot manufacturers (Wesco, Whites, Nick's, Frank's) have the option for you to send in measurements and a tracing of your feet for sizing advice or custom making. They all make some "dressier" styles depending on what your idea of dressy is. Expect to be in the $500 range for custom fit though.

[DoctorWho]

It makes sense that the ones with the independent laces (AKA a derby) would be easier to fit, as you have more leeway to really cinch things down, whereas with the closed-lacing shoes (oxfords) you're much more restricted by the overall shape of the shoe. That said, Paul Grangaard when he was CEO did mention that a lot of their lasts (the molds that they shape their shoes around) were developed decades ago, and that might might be time for a redesign as the shape of average American male feet have changed. I think that's what they were trying to do with that new Bond Street model, which is built on a last that is supposedly wider around the ball without getting too big near the heel.

That's interesting.

I would guess we are 1) bigger and heavier than we used to be and 2) walking less. Not sure how the first would change foot shape ("fatter?" maybe higher volume?) and the second I would think would mean that the ball has gotten narrower relative to the heel (which seems to be the opposite of what you're describing).

Are there expert shoe fitters or scanning technology for outlier feet?

Most of the west coast boot manufacturers (Wesco, Whites, Nick's, Frank's) have the option for you to send in measurements and a tracing of your feet for sizing advice or custom making. They all make some "dressier" styles depending on what your idea of dressy is. Expect to be in the $500 range for custom fit though.
[/quote]

Thanks.

[BostonRugger]

First fall weather day of the year (48 degrees out this AM) means the return of my 875s and 541s. Three digit numbers making a big comeback. Feels good.

[augeleven]

Do you mean these 875s
https://www.generalpants.com/us/shop-wo ... 084430-010

And these 541s?
https://www.dsw.com/en/us/product/new-b ... ens/369373

Edit: I feel like the summer weather will never end, and technically I’m still in isolation mode. Shorts and crocs are de riguer for “work from home”

[AdamSkillin]

First fall weather day of the year (48 degrees out this AM) means the return of my 875s and 541s. Three digit numbers making a big comeback. Feels good.

My favorite thing about Fall is the extra pockets I have access to while wearing flannels, vests, barn coats, etc.

[Allentown]

My 3yo came over and told me I was "cruising for MILFs at school" because I wore my grey jeans, Iron Rangers, and white poplin CT button down to daycare drop off. My wife thought she was talking too quiet for him to hear.

[BostonRugger]

And these 541s?
https://www.dsw.com/en/us/product/new-b ... ens/369373

Do those come in white? Gotta look fresh to take the wife down to Chili’s.

[damufunman]

I think it's time for some new pants, as my son decided I needed a repair and tried towing me to the shop from the holes in my pants...

PXL_20201018_223002777.jpg

I'm assuming the holes came about from a combination of stretching and rubbing due to my massive thighs. For reference, they are Levi's 541s in 32W and lasted about 16 months. The rise is a bit higher than I'd like, but otherwise fit was decent. I'm looking for something similar level of casual and fit, but more durable.

Main issue I'm having is just finding anything that'll fit that isn't ~$150 for Barbell Apparel, and I'm not entirely sure they won't last any longer, was hoping a more durable material may help. Any thoughts here?

[hector]

I think it's time for some new pants, as my son decided I needed a repair and tried towing me to the shop from the holes in my pants...
PXL_20201018_223002777.jpg

I'm assuming the holes came about from a combination of stretching and rubbing due to my massive thighs. For reference, they are Levi's 541s in 32W and lasted about 16 months. The rise is a bit higher than I'd like, but otherwise fit was decent. I'm looking for something similar level of casual and fit, but more durable.

Main issue I'm having is just finding anything that'll fit that isn't ~$150 for Barbell Apparel, and I'm not entirely sure they won't last any longer, was hoping a more durable material may help. Any thoughts here?

This is how all my jeans die too!

I bought the barbell apparel jeans. Same thing happened. They did send me a replacement pair, which was nice. But they did the same thing.

And they did not last anywhere near 16 months.

[stuffedsuperdud]

I think it's time for some new pants, as my son decided I needed a repair and tried towing me to the shop from the holes in my pants...
PXL_20201018_223002777.jpg

I'm assuming the holes came about from a combination of stretching and rubbing due to my massive thighs. For reference, they are Levi's 541s in 32W and lasted about 16 months. The rise is a bit higher than I'd like, but otherwise fit was decent. I'm looking for something similar level of casual and fit, but more durable.

Main issue I'm having is just finding anything that'll fit that isn't ~$150 for Barbell Apparel, and I'm not entirely sure they won't last any longer, was hoping a more durable material may help. Any thoughts here?

That's how all my pants, jeans or not, fail. I typically have a laundromat seamstress can patch up my 541s for much cheaper than the cost of a new pair, since the area is relatively invisible and thus a quick and ugly bit of patching will suffice, and get a bit more mileage out of it, but it'll eventually happen again at which point there's usually not enough healthy material to fix easily.

If you want a more durable solution, I'm not really sure there is one as this might just be the cost of heavy squats and deads, although the denimheads might know something I don't. (There might be something to the raw selvedge extra heavy denim, but I'm not an expert.) Heddels is helpful though: https://www.heddels.com/2013/01/the-com ... m-weights/

@mgil IIRC is a fan of the 501s, which might hold up better?

[Allentown]

I still recommend the Prana Bridger Jean. My wife's favorite pair of my pants. Comes in longs. Sizing is a little strange, but they are pretty good with returns. Full disclosure, I get them when a 50% off deal comes around. My thighs are 24" and the pants are snug-ish. They are pretty stretchy, they are made to climb in if you wanted.

[Philbert]

I still recommend the Prana Bridger Jean. My wife's favorite pair of my pants. Comes in longs. Sizing is a little strange, but they are pretty good with returns. Full disclosure, I get them when a 50% off deal comes around. My thighs are 24" and the pants are snug-ish. They are pretty stretchy, they are made to climb in if you wanted.

DYEL?*
On a serious note, 24" thighs in what waist size? 24" thigh in a 32 nominal (34 actual) waist with some stretch could be a great pair of pants.

* My thighs are also barely over 24"

[augeleven]

brb measuring thighs...
Anyone try the Duluth trading firehose pants. They make a “foreman” that ditches the cargo pockets. They claim to be super tough, but have some spandex for the stretch. They also have an interesting gusseted crotch that looks to combat squat blowouts.

27”, but I really like eating

[Hanley]

denimheads might know something I don't. (There might be something to the raw selvedge extra heavy denim, but I'm not an expert.)

20 oz. Naked & Famous Elephant 9 "weird guy" fit.

That shit'll last forever. And they're usually discounted.

[Hanley]

Anyone try the Duluth trading firehose pants.

I tried a 'firehose blazer'.

Hideous. Uncomfortable.

Promptly returned.