2024-05-07
Climbing
Campus strength was low, especially left side. There was some upper back soreness from deads and an unlogged (easy, thankfully) set of 5 pullups yesterday.
Top Rope
5.11a Flash
Pretty happy to be back to a flashing 5.11 level of fitness. Crimps and a few good pockets and some high feet.
5.12c 2 fall fail
I think this one was aspirational, and I got to where I thought I might, about a third of the way up, with one fall on the way there. Sometimes trying hard stuff just sucks, but this was great - nearly every move was at or near my limit, but I was able to just squeak by.
My climbing partner's wrist was feeling some kind of way, so she bailed here.
Bouldering
v5-7 Projecting
Tough compression-style boulder on bad holds. I made it about halfway in a few tries before giving up. I ran out of the ability to move my feet, but I have an idea (move my feet sooner, that's some real insight there) to try out next time.
v4-6 Failx2
Tough pinches with really high feet in the second half of this one. I would love to blame my left hand pinch strength for this one but I don't think that's the only problem. Tried a couple different betas through that section but it doesn't even seem close.
v4-6 Projecting, Failx2
Another one that starts out with tough compression and technical feet on really bad holds, then turns crimpy. I'm pretty sure I need to get a really high foot at the one place I'm falling - I climbed an easier one up to that point and was able to do it that way, just couldn't get it from the ground. Matching the finish hold is also tough, though I have a method in mind for that that should work. Not going to bother uploading video of my failed attempts, but I will try to get some when I send it.
3 Chili fall, send
A couple big dynamic moves and then an easy finish. I actually tried this one while barely warmed up at the beginning of the session, got the first dyno but didn't go hard enough on the second. With that info in mind, I sent it first try here.
3 Chili fail
Weird-ass start that I just could not figure out, I could barely get off the ground. Climbed into the first move after the start and sent it from there. I'm going to need to see someone send this, it seems like you maybe need to heel hook over your hand in the start but I have nfi how to actually achieve that.
3 Chili fail
Another one with some interesting dynamic coordination. Tried a few sections, but was gassed and it had been 2.5 hours and I needed to go home and eat quiche.
Climbing the day after a workout has been pretty good the last 2 times. Just started going back in my log to see when I started slumping after my really good climbing and it looks like I peaked around January, and then started going downhill as the lifting started picking up. Hmm...
CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
Moderator: Chebass88
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cgeorg
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cgeorg
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Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
2024-05-09
Biking
Did ~14miles in ~1.5h. Felt it the whole way but feeling fine today.
Last night of bowling league is tonight. We're up by 4 points in a 7 point system (2 for each of 3 games, 1 for series total, can earn a bonus point in a game by winning by 125+). There are a couple of teams in striking distance. If we win 2 games we should be a lock, barring anything crazy happening in the match between the other 2 top teams. The goal is to just take all 3.
Ah fuck it, the tl;dr is above but let's dive into the weeds on format. Our season was split into 3rds, with 3 weeks left over at the end. The winner of each third, plus the highest total points who didn't win a 3rd all go into a round robin tournament in those last 3 weeks. At the end, the teams with the top 2 point totals in that round robin take 1st and 2nd. The other 2 teams get thrown back into the mix to be ranked based on total points for the year. So, it's possible a team could win a third, suck the rest of the year, take 3rd in the round robin and end up low in the standings. The payout in this league is good for first and ok for 2nd. I think 3rd might make their money back. We won the first 3rd, and are currently tied for 2nd in total points in the league. In the round robin, we have 11 points, the other teams have 7, 6, and 5. The team we're playing tonight has 5. The most interesting scenario is that the other 2 teams split 4-3 and both end up at 10, the team we're bowling gets 5 and ends up at 10, and we get 2 and end up with 13. 3 way tie for second, I'm not sure what the tiebreaker is. If we win 2, we get to 15 and win unless the team with 7 sweeps and bonuses. Winning 1 game basically guarantees us 1st or 2nd.
Biking
Did ~14miles in ~1.5h. Felt it the whole way but feeling fine today.
Last night of bowling league is tonight. We're up by 4 points in a 7 point system (2 for each of 3 games, 1 for series total, can earn a bonus point in a game by winning by 125+). There are a couple of teams in striking distance. If we win 2 games we should be a lock, barring anything crazy happening in the match between the other 2 top teams. The goal is to just take all 3.
Ah fuck it, the tl;dr is above but let's dive into the weeds on format. Our season was split into 3rds, with 3 weeks left over at the end. The winner of each third, plus the highest total points who didn't win a 3rd all go into a round robin tournament in those last 3 weeks. At the end, the teams with the top 2 point totals in that round robin take 1st and 2nd. The other 2 teams get thrown back into the mix to be ranked based on total points for the year. So, it's possible a team could win a third, suck the rest of the year, take 3rd in the round robin and end up low in the standings. The payout in this league is good for first and ok for 2nd. I think 3rd might make their money back. We won the first 3rd, and are currently tied for 2nd in total points in the league. In the round robin, we have 11 points, the other teams have 7, 6, and 5. The team we're playing tonight has 5. The most interesting scenario is that the other 2 teams split 4-3 and both end up at 10, the team we're bowling gets 5 and ends up at 10, and we get 2 and end up with 13. 3 way tie for second, I'm not sure what the tiebreaker is. If we win 2, we get to 15 and win unless the team with 7 sweeps and bonuses. Winning 1 game basically guarantees us 1st or 2nd.
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cgeorg
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Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
Welp, worst case, we got swept, and the team with 7 swept, so we dropped to 5th. First place got $1820 a man, 5th took home $620.
Le sigh. We bowled well, they bowled a bit better, and pin carry was on their side the whole time. They had a guy shoot 296 game 1 and another guy shoot 299 game 2.
Still stinging a bit. We left 3 points on the table last week that'd we'd have had if we made a couple more single pin spares, and those would have put us in a tie for first.
Le sigh. We bowled well, they bowled a bit better, and pin carry was on their side the whole time. They had a guy shoot 296 game 1 and another guy shoot 299 game 2.
Still stinging a bit. We left 3 points on the table last week that'd we'd have had if we made a couple more single pin spares, and those would have put us in a tie for first.
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broseph
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Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
Heartbreaking. But also congrats. And it sounded like an exciting scramble for the top.
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cgeorg
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Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
Thanks. The sting is slowly fading, and we had a great time over the course of the season. I do love bowling with this group of guys.
2024-05-11
Climbing
Abbreviated warmup due to lateness due to sitting in traffic for a wreck. At first I was annoyed at myself for not checking google maps because there are 2 ways to get there and 1 is sometimes backed up, then switched to being present and hoping no one was hurt. From the look of the vehicles people were probably banged up but nothing major. Back to the warmup bit, I did feel like I had plenty of power in reserve for the campusing.
Top Rope
5.10a Flash
The holds on this were worse than expected in a lot of places, but I think they would have been a lot better if my fingers were less sausagey. My wife can't even keep my wedding ring on her thumb.
5.11a Flash
Felt like a 5.11a, some tough moves but well within my capabilities. A marked improvement over the last few months - I think I'm fully on my way back to/past the heights of January.
Lead
5.10a On-sight
Some holds were not as good as I'd like, and clipping with my left hand is still a chore. Never felt in danger of a fall though, just annoyed at some of the positions.
5.10d 2 falls, no send
A big burly one on the most overhanging part of the wall. I didn't think I'd get this one sent, but I did make it about 2/3 of the way. There was a good knee bar about half way so I was able to get a lot of my grip back there, I probably should have stayed longer than I did. The clipping positions on the head wall (the top part where it gets a little less overhung, probably 10 degrees rather than 30 or so) were all on not great holds and all left hand clips. And again, I think sausage fingers hurt me on my first fall - it should have been a really good undercling but I couldn't get my hand shoved in far enough. After I climbed back on, I got the penultimate clip and got to the last hold, but I knew I wouldn't be able to clip the chains, so I just called it there. I was about .5s away from falling on the last clip I did get, pretty proud of hanging on there. Didn't leave anything in the tank, and apparently looked like popeye when I came down due to the pump. I don't know that I'd get this one if I tried it again. Maybe if I just spend 5 minutes in the knee bar to fully recover.
I did tell me wife we could lift today, and we don't have anything else on the schedule so I should probably stick to it.
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cgeorg
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Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
2024-05-12
Lifting
A day late, full price.
CG Bench
118x[6,9,10,9,6]
No snaps, crackles, OR pops. Hard but easy iykwim.
Squat
195x3x5
Staying in the quads is hard. Also I looked at my video from the 405x1 way back when and the 375 before it moved so fast, probably faster than any of these.
Internal Shoulder Rotations
Blue x 12x2
+
External Shoulder Rotations
Grey x [10,12]
+
Fairly Upright Supine BB Row
125x12x2
+
6 ways
5x10x2
Realized as I was doing this that it's a real hell of a shoulder superset. Ran out of time to get the 3rd circuit in, mother's day stuff.
Lifting
A day late, full price.
CG Bench
118x[6,9,10,9,6]
No snaps, crackles, OR pops. Hard but easy iykwim.
Squat
195x3x5
Staying in the quads is hard. Also I looked at my video from the 405x1 way back when and the 375 before it moved so fast, probably faster than any of these.
Internal Shoulder Rotations
Blue x 12x2
+
External Shoulder Rotations
Grey x [10,12]
+
Fairly Upright Supine BB Row
125x12x2
+
6 ways
5x10x2
Realized as I was doing this that it's a real hell of a shoulder superset. Ran out of time to get the 3rd circuit in, mother's day stuff.
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cgeorg
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Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
2024-05-14
Lifting
CG Bench
135x5x5
Heavy/shaky upon liftoff but the weight was easily handled with no shoulder crackles, all reps @0ish. Felt something on the outside of my right biceps on the eccentric of the last rep, thought about just having my wife lift it off my chest but then figured I'd just reset my brace and tighten up my elbows and do the rep and stop at any sign of anything and there was no sign of anything. Skipped the last planned set though.
Deadlift
225x4x4
EZ and lazy, with my wife at 135 I didn't feel like making loading more complex. I guess adding a 10 on each side would have been easy. It's fine, call it DE.
BB Curls
55x15x3
I thought rep 13 of set 3 would be a partial. Then I thought rep 14 would be a partial. And 15. I don't think I really cheated them either. Kind of like trusting that a hold that doesn't feel good enough is actually good enough, I just tried them and they went. Makes me wonder how many more I had in me, but I didn't want to be fully dead for climbing tomorrow. There is like half a gym of new boulders to try.
BB Skull Crushers
55x[14,10,10]
I think the first set was a little more pressy than skull crushy. JM or French or something, with a pretty vertical bar path. Whatever, my triceps did stuff. Doing all the curls first gives you a nice biceps pillow to push off of.
Lifting
CG Bench
135x5x5
Heavy/shaky upon liftoff but the weight was easily handled with no shoulder crackles, all reps @0ish. Felt something on the outside of my right biceps on the eccentric of the last rep, thought about just having my wife lift it off my chest but then figured I'd just reset my brace and tighten up my elbows and do the rep and stop at any sign of anything and there was no sign of anything. Skipped the last planned set though.
Deadlift
225x4x4
EZ and lazy, with my wife at 135 I didn't feel like making loading more complex. I guess adding a 10 on each side would have been easy. It's fine, call it DE.
BB Curls
55x15x3
I thought rep 13 of set 3 would be a partial. Then I thought rep 14 would be a partial. And 15. I don't think I really cheated them either. Kind of like trusting that a hold that doesn't feel good enough is actually good enough, I just tried them and they went. Makes me wonder how many more I had in me, but I didn't want to be fully dead for climbing tomorrow. There is like half a gym of new boulders to try.
BB Skull Crushers
55x[14,10,10]
I think the first set was a little more pressy than skull crushy. JM or French or something, with a pretty vertical bar path. Whatever, my triceps did stuff. Doing all the curls first gives you a nice biceps pillow to push off of.
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DanCR
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Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
Good for you. I wrote about this in another log recently, but I had a long period of mostly ending sets at the point where I "felt" that it had been "hard" and I'd gotten the necessary stimulus. Obviously, that's ridiculous. How the hell would I know? More recently I've been going until I actually fail a rep, and I think that I'm seeing results. (I say that I "think" I am because short term hypertrophy gains always are tricky. Maybe I'm just eating way more carbs or some shit.)cgeorg wrote: ↑Tue May 14, 2024 3:13 pm BB Curls
55x15x3
I thought rep 13 of set 3 would be a partial. Then I thought rep 14 would be a partial. And 15. I don't think I really cheated them either. Kind of like trusting that a hold that doesn't feel good enough is actually good enough, I just tried them and they went. Makes me wonder how many more I had in me...
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cgeorg
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Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
2024-05-15
Climbing
None of my muscles seemed primarily affected but general strength seemed low - hangboard warmups and campus were both rough. Usually I finish my 10s 20mm hang with plenty in the tank or a pull up, this time I was near failure. Only did 1-3 on the campus.
Bouldering
V2-4 Flash, flash
A couple end of warmup climbs
v3-5 Sent 3rd go plus some false starts, probably actually 6th attempt in a comp.
Played with it a little, then tried the next climb a few times, then came back to this and sent.
v3-5 Fail, got a few moves in a couple of times.
Balancy slab one that I can't keep myself into the wall on.
v3-5 Sent 2nd go
Overhanging and powerful, with some weird footwork. Ended up using what is usually a foot hold for a hand and it made things way easier. If it wasn't the intended beta then using that foot hold there was a big oversight.
v4-6 Fail
Another overhanging and powerful one, gave it a few attempts and tried to work some lower sections but it felt out of my league today.
v3-5 Flash
Another overhanging powerful one. I have video but feel lazy. Lots of spots where you have one good hold and one bad hold, and have to let go of the good one to get to the next good one.
v4-6 Fail
Couldn't do the first couple of moves, blaming my big ass and lack of left thumb for not being able to keep from barn dooring.
Problem of the week Zone in 2 attempts, no top
Hard to describe this one, an interesting pull to stand up, then blindly moving left onto a terrible foot, then left with the hand to a zone volume that I couldn't tell if you were supposed to stand under and press up into, or try to actually use the edge of as a hold. It seemed like you needed to actually jump your right foot over to match your left, but I couldn't see a way to get any momentum going.
v5-7 Sent bajillionth go
This one started with a swinging jump into a corner with no hands, just balancing with your face smushed on the wall. Then, relatively easy (for a 5-7) the rest of the way. Also have video of this but a guy stood in front of the camera mirin' for the middle half of the climb.
Tried another v3-5 after it but my feet were killing me, my comfy shoes have worn through the toe so I was using a much more aggressive performance shoe for all of this.
I was really psyched for this session and then worried it wouldn't live up to the hype, but I'm pleased with how it went, and the 5-7 to finish is a cherry on top.
Climbing
None of my muscles seemed primarily affected but general strength seemed low - hangboard warmups and campus were both rough. Usually I finish my 10s 20mm hang with plenty in the tank or a pull up, this time I was near failure. Only did 1-3 on the campus.
Bouldering
V2-4 Flash, flash
A couple end of warmup climbs
v3-5 Sent 3rd go plus some false starts, probably actually 6th attempt in a comp.
Played with it a little, then tried the next climb a few times, then came back to this and sent.
v3-5 Fail, got a few moves in a couple of times.
Balancy slab one that I can't keep myself into the wall on.
v3-5 Sent 2nd go
Overhanging and powerful, with some weird footwork. Ended up using what is usually a foot hold for a hand and it made things way easier. If it wasn't the intended beta then using that foot hold there was a big oversight.
v4-6 Fail
Another overhanging and powerful one, gave it a few attempts and tried to work some lower sections but it felt out of my league today.
v3-5 Flash
Another overhanging powerful one. I have video but feel lazy. Lots of spots where you have one good hold and one bad hold, and have to let go of the good one to get to the next good one.
v4-6 Fail
Couldn't do the first couple of moves, blaming my big ass and lack of left thumb for not being able to keep from barn dooring.
Problem of the week Zone in 2 attempts, no top
Hard to describe this one, an interesting pull to stand up, then blindly moving left onto a terrible foot, then left with the hand to a zone volume that I couldn't tell if you were supposed to stand under and press up into, or try to actually use the edge of as a hold. It seemed like you needed to actually jump your right foot over to match your left, but I couldn't see a way to get any momentum going.
v5-7 Sent bajillionth go
This one started with a swinging jump into a corner with no hands, just balancing with your face smushed on the wall. Then, relatively easy (for a 5-7) the rest of the way. Also have video of this but a guy stood in front of the camera mirin' for the middle half of the climb.
Tried another v3-5 after it but my feet were killing me, my comfy shoes have worn through the toe so I was using a much more aggressive performance shoe for all of this.
I was really psyched for this session and then worried it wouldn't live up to the hype, but I'm pleased with how it went, and the 5-7 to finish is a cherry on top.
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cgeorg
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Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
Have a bunch of stuff but haven't made time to post. Saw Soen Tuesday night, saw In Flames Thursday night, turned 41 Friday. Tried to bump lifting from Thursday to Friday but then Friday got tight on time. Maybe tomorrow after brunch and before seeing Sleep Token. Also, Symphony X on Tuesday.
2024-05-18
Climbing
Top Rope
5.10b
Warmup, fine
5.11c Flash
It was sweaty in there and there were a few holds that weren't great. Some interesting side to side weight management on this climb, and an interesting section at the top with some mantle/press/side pull stuff. 4 stars.
Got it first go today and had plenty in the tank. I got my foot sequence worked out on the technical spot, and was way cleaner through a slightly earlier spot. The crimpy spot near the top felt like to problem. Real psyched at how comfortably this one went down.
Bouldering
Tried this one again but couldn't hold on to the compressiony bits. We can blame sweat but I think I was just not as strong on this one today.
2024-05-18
Climbing
Top Rope
5.10b
Warmup, fine
5.11c Flash
It was sweaty in there and there were a few holds that weren't great. Some interesting side to side weight management on this climb, and an interesting section at the top with some mantle/press/side pull stuff. 4 stars.
5.11d Sendcgeorg wrote: ↑Tue Apr 30, 2024 6:57 pm 2024-04-30
5.11d 2 falls, 2 falls
Toughie with a few really fun moves in the middle and a pretty technical spot that I fell on both times, then a crimpy spot near the top that's just quite hard that I also fell on both times. I think I'll keep working this one as well.
Got it first go today and had plenty in the tank. I got my foot sequence worked out on the technical spot, and was way cleaner through a slightly earlier spot. The crimpy spot near the top felt like to problem. Real psyched at how comfortably this one went down.
Bouldering
v4-6 Failcgeorg wrote: ↑Tue May 07, 2024 6:51 pm 2024-05-07
v4-6 Projecting, Failx2
Another one that starts out with tough compression and technical feet on really bad holds, then turns crimpy. I'm pretty sure I need to get a really high foot at the one place I'm falling - I climbed an easier one up to that point and was able to do it that way, just couldn't get it from the ground. Matching the finish hold is also tough, though I have a method in mind for that that should work. Not going to bother uploading video of my failed attempts, but I will try to get some when I send it.
Tried this one again but couldn't hold on to the compressiony bits. We can blame sweat but I think I was just not as strong on this one today.
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DanCR
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Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
Happy birthday!cgeorg wrote: ↑Sat May 18, 2024 10:11 am Have a bunch of stuff but haven't made time to post. Saw Soen Tuesday night, saw In Flames Thursday night, turned 41 Friday. Tried to bump lifting from Thursday to Friday but then Friday got tight on time. Maybe tomorrow after brunch and before seeing Sleep Token. Also, Symphony X on Tuesday.
How were Soen and In Flames? I either didn't realize or forgot that you were a metal guy. I forget everything lately.
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cgeorg
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Re: CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)
Soen was ok. I love their stuff in headphones but it wasn't quite as full/expansive/something live. Still glad I went, having a gummy might have helped. In Flames was killer as always, love Anders' banter with the crowd, and though they started with something I didn't recognize/couldn't quite get into, they moved on to stuff I love and didn't stop. 5 stars. Creeping Death opened for them, fine show but not my jam, and then Gatecreeper who was pretty solid. Both more on the deathy side of things.DanCR wrote: ↑Sat May 18, 2024 10:25 amHappy birthday!cgeorg wrote: ↑Sat May 18, 2024 10:11 am Have a bunch of stuff but haven't made time to post. Saw Soen Tuesday night, saw In Flames Thursday night, turned 41 Friday. Tried to bump lifting from Thursday to Friday but then Friday got tight on time. Maybe tomorrow after brunch and before seeing Sleep Token. Also, Symphony X on Tuesday.
How were Soen and In Flames? I either didn't realize or forgot that you were a metal guy. I forget everything lately.
I was also watching In Flames and noticing a shredded, younger, technically flawless guitarist on the far side of the stage, thinking about how that dude's definitely not original because he fits all the hallmarks of being the new guy. Then during the band intros Anders says "And over here, Chris Broderick". Duh, can't believe I didn't recognize him. Saw him with Megadeth a while back, and I'm pretty sure Act of Defiance opened at a show I went to as well.